Archive for August, 2010

Buying and electric forced air furnace

Saturday, August 21st, 2010

Electric Forced-air Heating Systems

Buying a forced-air furnace

When a electric furnace delivers heated air blown by a fan through a network of ducts, it is called a forced-air system. Because the fan forces air into each room in the house, this type of system does not depend on natural convection to distribute heated air evenly throughout your house.

Heating with Electricity

Electric forced-air systems come in a wide range of capacities – generally from 10 kilowatts to 50 kilowatts. The heating elements, circulation fan, air filter, and control devices are contained in a compact cabinet.

Electricity can be used as the sole heating source or in combination with other sources in a home heating system.

The five basic types of electric heating systems available in Canada are as follows:

  • forced-air systems (which can be electric resistance heating, a heat pump or a combination of the two)
  • hydronic or hot water systems
  • room heaters
  • radiant systems
  • combination systems with plenum heaters in the hot air plenum.

An increasing number of homeowners with electric baseboard heating are switching to other energy sources, such as natural gas, oil or heat pumps, because of the high cost of electric heating. While a major constraint is the lack of a distribution system, many homeowners find that air ducts for a central forced-air system, or pipes and radiators for a hydronic system, can be installed at a cost that still makes the whole conversion financially attractive. Fuel-fired space heaters, wood stoves, and advanced, energy-efficient wood-or gas-fired fireplaces can also be effective.

If electricity is your only energy source, unused chimney flues can be closed off, insulated, and sealed. Closing off the chimney flues can have an effect on drafts and humidity levels in the house, and will reduce heat loss.

If you replace your forced-air furnace with a new electrical furnace, you can usually use the existing ductwork with very few modifications. However, If the energy efficiency of a house is improved, it will have a smaller heating need than it had before the retrofit. This could mean that the furnace is now oversized. If so, you might end up with large temperature fluctuations and the potential for rapid on-off cycling.

In addition, the balance of the heat distribution is likely to have changed. Insulation and air sealing could make some hard-to-heat rooms easier to heat, while other rooms may overheat. This may require a re-balance of the system by adjusting the dampers in a ducted system or adjusting valves in a hot water system.

CAUTION: Any additions or alterations to an existing furnace involving installation of an electric plenum heater must be done by a qualified contractor. The furnace must then be inspected, usually by the local electric utility representative.

Electric hydronic systems

Electric Thermal Storage

Electric thermal storage (ETS) heating was developed in Europe in the 1940s and was introduced to the United States market in the 1980s. This type of space-heating system is capable of providing a home’s heating requirements by storing heat produced during the night, when utilities generally offer lower off-peak rates. Most ETS systems now available can provide 16 hours of on-peak heat from as little as eight hours of off-peak charge.

How it works – The ETS central furnace consists of a storage medium (usually called the core) and controls, which detect when it is necessary to accumulate a charge during the off-peak period. Elements within the storage core heat ceramic bricks, crushed rock, water, or paraffin wax to a high temperature to provide the heating requirements for the on-peak period. Room storage units are smaller versions of central ETS furnaces. They come in a variety of sizes, from 2 kilowatts to 7 kilowatts, and supply the heating for individual rooms. Larger rooms in the home may sometimes require more than one storage heater.

These systems can offer savings on heating costs if there are significantly lower off-peak (night) electricity rates.

Certification and Standards

All electric heating equipment, heating elements, and electric baseboard heaters sold in Canada must meet strict manufacturing and installation standards for safety. The standards fall within the purview of provincial safety codes and the Canadian Standards Association (CSA). Before purchasing your heating equipment, be sure it carries a CSA, CGA, IAS, ULC or Warnock Hersey certification label.

Federal and provincial energy efficiency standards are now in place for space heating equipment. No energy efficiency regulations apply to electric resistance heating equipment; only heat pumps are affected.

Improving the efficiency of an existing electric heating system.

Gas-fired and Propane-fired Forced-air Furnaces

Friday, August 20th, 2010

Gas-fired and Propane-fired Forced-air Furnaces

High-efficiency and Standard-efficiency

Over the last 20 years, a new generation of higher efficiency gas furnaces and boilers has come to market. An essential difference in the design of these units is how they are vented, eliminating the need for dilution air. The combustion of gas produces certain by-products, including water vapour and carbon dioxide. In a conventional gas furnace, such by-products are vented through a chimney, but a considerable amount of heat (both in the combustion products and in heated room air) escapes through the chimney at the same time. Heat is also lost up the chimney when the furnace is off. The newer designs have been modified to reduce the amount of heated air that escapes during the on and off cycles and by extracting more of the heat contained in the combustion by-products before they are vented.

Furnaces with these design modifications use much less energy than conventional furnaces, so consider what this means to you in dollars. Our table comparing technologies and seasonal efficiencies can help you compare your possible savings. It can will help you decide which energy-saving features will give you the most for your heating dollar.

High-efficiency Condensing Gas Furnaces

Condensing gas furnaces are the most energy efficient furnaces available, with seasonal efficiencies of between 90 and 97 percent. The high-efficiency condensing gas furnace should be the furnace of choice for most Canadians. It is:

  • cost-effective for most climatic regions of Canada
  • not susceptible to some of the condensation and long-term vent degradation problems that can occur with the standard-efficiency furnace
  • better suited for the tight construction of an energy-efficient house

High-efficiency condensing gas furnaces qualify for ENERGY STAR labelling.

High-efficiency condensing gas furnace

Heating with gas

The burners are like those on conventional furnaces, and draft is supplied by an induced draft fan. However, additional heat-exchange surfaces made of corrosion-resistant materials (usually stainless steel) extract heat from the combustion by-products before they are exhausted. In this condensing heat exchange section, the combustion gases are cooled to a point at which the water vapour condenses, thus releasing additional heat into the home. The condensate is piped to a floor drain.

Because no chimney is needed, installation costs are reduced. The flue gas temperature is low enough for the gases to be vented through a PVC or ABS plastic pipe out the side wall of the house. Depending on the design, these furnaces can use up to 38 percent less fuel than older gas furnaces equipped with pilot lights. Furthermore, polluting emissions released into the environment are also reduced.

Some condensing furnaces or boilers differ only in that they use a pulse combustion technology to ignite small amounts of gas at frequent intervals.

Unlike conventional and standard-efficiency furnaces, whose efficiency decreases with furnace oversizing, condensing furnaces are actually slightly more efficient when they are oversized and run for shorter periods. Thus, if you are choosing a new condensing furnace, you can get a furnace that is slightly larger than the house heat demand without suffering an “efficiency penalty.”

Sealed Combustion Systems

In a sealed combustion system, outside air is piped directly to the combustion chamber, and the furnace does not draw air from inside the house for either combustion or vent gas dilution.

Although heating costs may be reduced slightly by decreasing the amount of heated air that is drawn from inside the house, the main advantage of sealed combustion is that it isolates the combustion air system from the house so that the furnace is not affected by the operation of other appliances in the home. The tight construction of an energy-efficient house, combined with the operation of exhaust fans (such as in the kitchen and bathroom) and clothes dryers, can cause spillage of flue gas and backdrafting. Sealed combustion units prevent this potential safety problem.

Most high-efficiency furnaces are designed as sealed combustion systems, and so are well suited to the tight construction of a modern energy-efficient house. Those that are not sealed typically have an induced draft that is powerful enough to overcome any house depressurization. Some standard-efficiency furnaces are also available as sealed combustion systems.

Standard-efficiency Gas Furnaces

Standard-efficiency furnaces have a seasonal efficiency of at least 78 percent; most have an efficiency of 80 percent. Standard-efficiency gas furnaces use mainly a naturally aspirating burner and do not have a continuously lit pilot light.

Newer furnaces have electric ignition systems, which can consume from 3 to 5 percent less energy than a furnace with a conventional standing pilot light.

Standard-efficiency gas furnace with induced draft fan

Heating with gas

Most standard-efficiency furnaces are equipped with a powered exhaust, usually consisting of a built-in induced draft fan. With more heat exchange, no dilution air and high resistance to flow during the off cycle, seasonal efficiency is much higher for today’s standard-efficiency furnaces than for furnaces equipped with pilot lights. Energy savings are between 23 and 28 percent.

These systems can be vented through a chimney or out the side wall of the house using high-grade stainless steel. Some problems have been associated with the use of high-temperature plastic vent pipes with standard-efficiency furnaces. Regulations may forbid the use of certain vent materials in your area. You should discuss all options with your local serviceperson, approvals agency or gas utility.

Installation codes may require bringing a combustion air supply to the furnace from outdoors.

Maximizing efficiency

Cost considerations: operating cost, purchase price, installation cost

To accommodate different types of houses, there are three main furnace designs for use with gas-fired forced-air systems. The designs are named according to the way air travels through the system.

  • Upflow furnaces are recommended for basement floor locations.
  • Horizontal flow furnaces are particularly suited for crawl space installations.
  • Downflow furnaces are recommended for installations in mobile homes or on the main floor of houses on concrete slabs.

Older Furnace Types

Conventional Gas Furnaces

A conventional gas-fired, forced-air heating system consists of a furnace with a naturally aspirating gas burner. Unlike newer units, which feature electronic ignition, these systems use a standing (continuously lit) pilot light. The combustion gases pass through the furnace, where they pass heat across a heat exchanger and are exhausted to the outside through a flue pipe and vent. A draft hood serves to isolate the burner from outside pressure fluctuations at the vent exit by pulling heated house air into the exhaust as required. A circulating fan passes cooled house air from the return ducts over the furnace heat exchanger, where the air is warmed and passed through ductwork to all areas of the house.

A conventional gas-fired, warm-air furnace

Heating with gas

There are two entirely separate air movement paths:

  • The combustion path supplies air to the burner and to the draft hood and carries hot combustion gases through the burner, heat exchanger and flue pipe to the vent and out of the house.
  • The heat distribution and cold air return path circulates and heats the air inside the house.

Conventional gas furnaces have a seasonal efficiency of about 60 percent. Although most Canadian homes have “heat and circulate” type of equipment, conventional furnaces are no longer available, as they do not meet the seasonal efficiency standards required by the regulations of Canada’s Energy Efficiency Act.

Converted Gas Furnaces

Another common type of gas-fired system is an oil-fired furnace that has been converted to natural gas, usually with either a power burner or a power-assisted burner. This type of unit has a fan with a burner to assist in the combustion process and to maintain an adequate draft. The dilution device is a double-acting barometric damper rather than a draft hood, but it performs a similar function.

Converted oil furnaces are generally more efficient than conventional gas furnaces, with seasonal efficiencies in the range of 63 to 68 percent. However, they are not nearly as efficient as new standard- and high-efficiency gas furnaces.

Gas Furnaces with Automatic Vent Damper

Some gas furnaces have a vent damper in the flue exhaust, downstream of both the furnace heat exchanger and the draft dilution device. A thermostat controls the damper. When the gas burner turns off, the damper is closed automatically after a period; when the thermostat signals to start the furnace, the damper opens before the burner ignites. By closing off the vent during much of the off cycle, the damper prevents some of the warm household air from being drawn up the chimney and lost to the outdoors.

These furnaces usually have an electric or electronic ignition and generally consume between 3 percent and 10 percent less fuel than a conventional furnace. However, some of the savings can be lost if a conventional gas-fired water heater is also connected to the same chimney. The water heater is still vented and is burdened by an increased draft, augmenting the heat lost through the water heater.

Vent-dampered gas furnaces do not meet current minimum standards for energy efficiency.

Other gas heating options

Several other gas heating options are available besides forced-air systems. Installing a central gas-heating system may not be practical or possible if your house is built on a concrete slab or if you live in a mobile home. Specialized gas heating equipment might be a good alternative. There are many kinds available, and you should consult your gas utility or a heating contractor for a detailed assessment. The following are some of the most common types.

Direct-vent Wall Furnaces

Direct-vent wall furnaces are self-contained, sealed combustion heating appliances that draw in combustion air and discharge combustion products through a vent to the outside. They are permanently attached to the structure of a building, recreational vehicle or mobile home, and are not connected to ductwork. These units circulate heated air by gravity or with the help of a circulating fan. Units with a circulating fan yield higher efficiencies.

Wall furnaces are compact and less expensive than central furnaces. They come in a variety of heating capacities, with efficiencies that range from that of a standard-efficiency unit with a pilot light to that of a high-efficiency unit with an electric ignition and induced draft. The annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) can range from 70 to 80 percent, although high-efficiency central furnaces are generally much more efficient.

Room Heaters

Room heaters are self-contained, free-standing heating appliances with heat outputs much lower than those of central furnaces. They often resemble free-standing wood stoves. They are not connected to ductwork. Because they heat only the space in which they are located, most rooms require their own units. A vent pipe allows combustion by-products to escape to the outdoors.

Heat is circulated by natural convection or with a circulating fan. Units are available with AFUE ratings between 60 and 82 percent.

A recently developed direct-vent, gas-fired baseboard heater resembles electric orhydronic (hot water) baseboards. It allows the retrofit of existing electrically heated homes without the need for a chimney or a central distribution system.

Operating and Maintaining an existing gas heating system.

Oil Furnaces

Thursday, August 19th, 2010

A basic oil-fired, forced-air heating system consists of a burner fed by heating oil from a storage tank, usually located inside the house, firing into a combustion chamber in the furnace. The combustion gases pass through the furnace, where they give up heat across a heat exchanger. They are then exhausted to the outside through a flue pipe and chimney. For most systems, a barometric damper, acting as a mixingvalve in the flue pipe, downstream of the furnace proper, isolates the burner from changes in pressure at the chimney exit by pulling varying quantities of heated room air into the exhaust. A circulating fan passes cool house air from the cold air return ducts over the furnace heat exchanger, where it is warmed up, then moved into the hot air ducts, which distribute the heated air throughout the house.

Oil-fired forced-air furnace

Oil-fired forced-air furnace

Note that there are two entirely separate air movement paths within the furnace.

  • The combustion path supplies air to the burner and follows the hot combustion gases through the heat exchanger and flue pipe to the chimney and out of the house.
  • The second path circulates and heats the air within the house.

A third air path, external to the furnace, is the dilution air pulled through the barometric damper.

In most houses, the quantity of dilution air drawn through the barometric damper is much greater than required for combustion and can represent from 3 to 15 percent of the total heat loss in the house. Thus, anything that reduces this dilution airflow without compromising the performance of the furnace will lead to increased fuel savings and efficiency.

Many oil furnaces can be sidewall-vented by using an additional induced draft fan, normally located downstream of the furnace and barometric damper, located on the inside wall of the house. Some of these have a long run time after the burner shuts off in order to purge the furnace system of any combustion gases. The use of the barometric damper and long purge time both tend to reduce efficiency.

Some newer furnaces might have an optional direct connection for outside air for combustion (sealed combustion) instead of using indoor air. Care must be taken if this approach is followed. On a cold winter day, if the air is not warmed somewhat before it reaches the burner, it could cool the fuel oil and cause start-up problems.

A potentially more serious problem occurs when the oil is stored in tank outside the house, rather than in the heated space. When the outside temperature gets very cold, the oil in the tank cools down as well. The oil can become very viscous (thick), and you may not be able to get the oil from the tank to the burner – hence, no heat. Even if it does finally get to the burner, it may be so thick that your oil burner cannot atomize it properly and you will get poor combustion, significant sooting and potential burner failure. If you have an outside tank, consider some form of heating either from the tank or the line, and install a smaller holding tank within the house to help prevent these problems. Even better, consider bringing the tank inside the house.

Furnace Efficiency

Ever since the fuel price scare of the early 1970s, the industry has been working to improve the efficiency of furnaces and boilers. The introduction of improved burners with flame-retention heads was the first major step in boosting the efficiency of conventional oil-fired heating equipment. High-static burners have further enhanced the efficiency capability of oil heating systems. Some manufacturers have produced a “mid-efficiency” class of oil furnace designed to make the most of the superior performance of these new high-static burners. Other companies have developed condensing furnaces that cool the combustion gases enough to recover the heat that is normally lost in the form of water vapour. New technologies now allow appliances to efficiently integrate two different functions, such as space and water heating, simultaneously. A furnace’s energy efficiency performance over a heating season is called the Seasonal Energy Utilization Efficiency (SEUE). This SEUE is expressed as a percentage. The higher the percentage, the more efficient the furnace. For furnaces with no standing pilot light, the SEUE is equivalent to the Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE).

ENERGY STAR qualified, oil-fired furnaces have an AFUE of 85 percent or more. To improve electrical efficiency, choose one with a high-efficiency circulating fan motor. Some high-efficiency furnaces using a variable-speed direct current (DC) motor to run the air circulation fan, can significantly reduce electricity consumption while providing better heat distribution. Usually, you can locate the ENERGY STAR symbol on the back of the manufacturer’s brochures, beside the EnerGuide rating box. Use the EnerGuide rating to determine the AFUE rating and locate the ENERGY STAR symbol to ensure you have the most efficient product available.

ENERGY STAR qualifications

Mid-efficiency Furnaces

In addition to an improved high-static oil burner, a mid-efficiency oil furnace typically features a low-mass combustion chamber (usually ceramic fibre). The hot combustion gases pass through a superior heat exchanger that enables the circulating house air to extract more heat, and have a lower flue gas temperature. The need for a barometric damper and the large requirement for exhaust gas dilution by house air have been eliminated in the most efficient designs, and the furnace exhaust can be side-wall vented through a double-walled stainless flue pipe.

Mid-efficiency furnaces may have a seasonal efficiency of 83 to 89 percent and may use 28 to 33 percent less fuel than an old conventional furnace producing the same amount of heat.

Oil-fired forced-air furnace

The mid-efficiency furnace must keep the exiting gases above a certain temperature to prevent water vapour in the flue gas from condensing inside the furnace or venting system, where it can cause corrosion and other serious problems. The exit temperature of the combustion gases can be as low as 150°C (302°F).

Benefits of a good standard-efficiency furnace are:

  • much lower combustion and dilution air requirements
  • more power to exhaust the combustion products (an advantage in newer, tighter housing)
  • a safety shut-off in case of raft problems
  • a more effective venting system

Condensing Oil Furnaces

Heat is carried away not only in the high temperature of the flue gases, but also in the water vapour they contain. The water vapour that is produced when fuel is burned holds a substantial amount of latent heat – for oil this is just over 6%, while for natural gas it is over 11% of all the energy in the fuel. This is because oil produces only half the water vapour of gas when it is burned.

A condensing furnace uses an extra heat exchanger made of stainless steel to extract more heat from the combustion gases before they leave the furnace, dropping the exit temperature to between 40°C and 50°C (104°F and 122°F). This results in water vapour from the flue gas condensing inside the heat exchanger and releasing its latent heat to the house air circulating through the furnace. At this point, the combustion gases are so cool that they require only a narrow, certified, vent pipe that goes out the side wall of the house, instead of up the chimney. The condensate runs to a drain outlet.

With oil containing only half the hydrogen of natural gas, the potential for efficiency improvements by condensing the flue gas is much lower for oil than for natural gas – the dew point is lower, so the furnace has to work harder to condense less. Also, with higher sulphur levels, the condensate is corrosive, so that any condensing heat exchanger for oil must be even more corrosion-resistant. Oil combustion also produces a certain amount of soot, which can concentrate the acidic condensate as “acid smut” at certain points on the heat exchange surface, making things even more difficult.

Manufacturers have been working to resolve the issues mentioned above. They use a very high quality heat exchanger and a high-static burner. As these are relatively new to the oil-funace marketplace, it may still be too early to tell if all the long-term concerns with oil-fired condensing systems have been resolved, but the products and installations to date look very promising.

Many heating industry experts believe that new technology furnaces, available in small enough sizes to fit the needs of even super-insulated houses, will be the next major development in oil heating. This can come about in two ways – either by developing alternative oil burner technology or by integrating the functions of different home energy requirements, such as space and water heating systems.

Carbon monoxide detectors

Because modern houses are more airtight and have more powerful air-exhausting systems, there is a greater chance that combustion products – sometimes containing deadly carbon monoxide gas – will linger inside your house and build up to dangerous levels. A certified carbon monoxide detector located close to fuel-fired equipment (such as furnaces, fireplaces, space heaters, wood stoves and gas or propane refrigerators) will signal a potentially dangerous situation that must be corrected immediately.

Symptoms of low-level carbon monoxide poisoning are similar to those of the flu – headaches, lethargy and nausea. If your carbon monoxide detector goes off, leave your home immediately, call your gas distribution company and seek medical attention.

If you operate a conventional wood-burning fireplace (which can often leak carbon monoxide), install a carbon monoxide detector near the fireplace.

Reducing Condensation Problems in the House

More efficient heating systems, combined with better draft-proofing and insulation, can result in less air infiltration. This in turn may lead to excess moisture in the house, particularly on cold winter days. Heavy condensation on the inside of windows and dampness or mould growth on walls or ceilings are indications of too much moisture.

If these are not corrected, serious structural damage will eventually occur; luckily, indoor condensation problems can be solved:

  • Because most of the indoor humidity arises from regular household activities (such as showering and cooking), your first step should be to reduce the amount of moisture from these sources. You can do this, for example, by ensuring that your clothes dryer vents to the outside, using lids on pots when cooking, and keeping showers short.
  • You should consider installing exhaust fans in the bathroom and kitchen, vented directly to the outside.
  • You should also check the humidifier setting on your furnace, if it is equipped with one. In fact, it may not be necessary to have a humidifier in a more airtight house.
  • Finally, you should talk to a contractor about installing a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) that will increase the ventilation in your house and decrease humidity without wasting energy. HRV is a very good choice if good air quality is desired.

Improving the efficiency of existing oil heating system

Buying a Forced-air Furnace

Wednesday, August 18th, 2010

Buying a Forced-air Furnace

You cannot shop for a furnace the same way you shop or a camera or a pair of shoes. There are no “furnace stores” that allow you to examine, compare and price different makes and models.

As you consider a particular type of furnace, read the literature carefully to find out if it describes the features you are looking for. To compare the efficiency ratings of various models, look for the EnerGuide rating.. This will show you the annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) rating, not just the steady-state efficiency. Make sure to distinguish the two types of ratings. Ask for an ENERGY STAR qualified model to ensure you are offered a high efficiency furnace.

Our Table can help you compare the ratings of several models. Review our on-line list of models to compare ENERGY STAR qualified and non-ENERGY STAR equipment.

But there are still ways to get first-hand information on the makes and models available, and their relative costs:

  • Contact a number of heating firms.
    Ask them for the manufacturers’ illustrated sales literature on the furnaces they sell and install.

  • Check the references of the contractor.
    It is important to hire a contractor who will install your equipment properly so that it will operate efficiently. The Better Business Bureau will know contractors who are members and can tell you whether any recent complaints have been filed against them. Your local Chamber of Commerce or Board of Trade may also be able to provide information.

    If your neighbours have had similar work done recently, ask them how satisfied they were with their contractor. If you are buying a relatively new type of furnace design, try to get the names of other homeowners who have had such equipment installed, and find out what they have to say about the appliance’s performance and the work of the installer.

  • Contact local utility companies, fuel dealers and provincial/territorial heating fuel regulatory agencies.
    Local utilities and fuel suppliers can often provide information on the cost of purchasing, renting and installing furnaces and the estimated seasonal heating costs of the type of equipment you plan to use. Local utility companies, fuel dealers and provincial/territorial heating fuel regulatory offices sometimes keep lists of fully qualified registered or licensed contractors.

The Home Energy Audit

Before replacing your heating system, you should consider having a home energy auditcarried out by a qualified EnerGuide for Houses advisor. The advisor will provide you with a thorough whole-house energy evaluation and analysis, including:

  • a guided tour of your house to point out areas of air leakage
  • an easy-to-understand report on your home’s energy performance
  • a home improvement plan that will show you how to lower your energy costs
  • an EnerGuide for Houses rating and label, so you can compare your home with others across Canada

By following up on the recommendations of such an audit, you may be able to reduce the size of furnace required.

What a Contractor Can Do

A heating contractor cannot determine what size of heating system you need just by walking through your house. The “size” of heating system represents its heat output when it is running in steady-state operation. If you are replacing an existing heating system, the output of that system will give only a rough idea of the maximum size you should consider. The contractor will have to calculate the heating requirement of your house very carefully, first by factoring out other usage, such as for the water heater and kitchen range. The calculation will be based on one of the following:

  • the fuel consumption of your present heating system over a known winter period, and the climatic history for your location over that same period
  • a thorough measurement and examination of your house to determine size, insulation levels and degree of tightness of the building envelope

To make sure your new heating system is the proper size, the quotation and contract should include a statement like the following: “The heating equipment size will be determined by a heat loss calculation using the formulas published by _______________________ ”(a recognized organizations such as a electrical utility, the Canadian Oil Heat Association, the Canadian Gas Association (CGA), the Heating, Refrigerating and Air Conditioning Institute of Canada (HRAI), or the Canadian Standards Association (CSA). A copy of these calculations will be given to the homeowner.

To determine the size of your new furnace, ask the contractor to provide you with the calculation results, including a summary of the general design assumptions and a statement of the calculation methods used. A calculation based simply on the floor area of the home, or replacing the furnace with one of “equivalent” size, is not adequate in most cases. If the contractor does not show any interest in either a detailed assessment of the house or a review of your past heating bills, then the calculation of your furnace size is likely to be no better than a guess.

Even the best furnaces do not run at maximum efficiency if they are oversized. Use your present furnace to gauge the size of a replacement, and you could end up with a unit that is as much as three times too large. You will pay too much, and your ductwork is likely to be undersized for today’s energy-efficient equipment. Your home might even feel uncomfortable. An improperly sized furnace will not be as efficient as a furnace tailored to your specific heating needs.

What the Written Estimate Should Include

Before you decide what to buy, obtain firm, written quotes/estimates on:

  • The cost of upgrading your existing equipment
  • The cost of buying and installing a complete new unit
  • he cost or renting heating equipment or leasing to purchase

An itemized list should spell out all material and labour costs in the bid including:

  • Alteration or improvement of existing heat distribution ducts
  • Installation of furnace and fuel supply piping and ductwork
  • Installation of water heater and vent
  • Installation of chimney liner and any related masonry work
  • Installation of additional equipment, such as gas appliances, humidifiers, air cleaners or air conditioners
  • A statement describing how much existing equipment will be used in the new system
  • A rough diagram showing the layout of new wiring, ductwork or water pipes and the location of supply piping and heating equipment
  • A statement that clearly defines who is responsible for:
    • all necessary permits and payment of related fees
    • on-site inspections by the utility
    • scheduling of all other required work by the utility, such as: Supply pipe installation and hook-up or alterations to the transformer or related outside equipment
    • removal of existing equipment that will not be used with the new system
    • all related costs, such as subcontracts with trades people
  • A clear estimate of when the work will be completed
  • A warranty for materials and labour
  • A schedule and method of payment
  • A statement that indicates when electric service will be interrupted and for how long

Additional electrical space-heating equipment costs:

  • Alteration or replacement of the main service panel and service entrance
  • Alterations to service wires above or below grade to the transformer pole
  • Transformer pole replacement (sometimes the responsibility of the customer in rural areas)

Get several estimates on the work to be done. Some contractors may be better at explaining what has to be done. Some may use higher quality components, and others may schedule the work at your convenience.

With these figures and a reasonable estimate of the probable annual fuel savings, you will be able to determine how long it will take to recover the cost. This is not the only factor to consider, but it is certainly important.

If you are installing additional gas-fired appliances at the same time, the contractor installing the heating system may be able to combine the two jobs for a favourable price. This work can often be undertaken without duplicating inspections, permits and labour.

Do not hesitate to ask the contractor for a clear explanation of any aspect of the work before, during or after the installation of your heating system.

Compare Annual Heating Costs of Heating Systems and Energy Savings

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

Compare Annual Heating Costs of Heating Systems and Energy Savings

The annual heating cost is determined by the combination of annual heating load, energy source and equipment efficiency. To determine the savings you could expect if you upgrade your current system, you can use the formulas for each energy source or use our heating calculator.

Upgrading an oil system

If you are thinking of converting your oil furnace to a more efficient oil heating system, you may be interested in determining the savings you could expect. Table 1 and the following formula can provide you with reasonably accurate figures. You need to know your annual fuel cost and the type of heating technology you are using.

Annual $ Savings = A – B
———— X C
A

A = Seasonal efficiency of proposed system
B = Seasonal efficiency of existing system
C = Present annual fuel cost

Example: How much would you save by changing from an old oil furnace to a new oil furnace with a high-static burner at 85 percent efficiency, if your present annual fuel cost is $1, 205? The seasonal efficiency of the new furnace with a high-static burner is taken to be 85 percent, and the present oil furnace efficiency is 60 percent. Hence, A = 85%, B = 60%, C = $1, 205.

Annual $ savings = 85 – 60
————— X 1205 = $354
85

In this example you would save $354 per year with this new oil furnace.

Table 1 – Typical Heating System Efficiencies and Energy Savings
Energy Source Technology Seasonal Efficiency (AFUE) % Energy Savings % of Base*
Oil Cast-iron head burner (old furnace) 60 Base
Flame-retention head replacement burner 70–78 14–23
High-static replacement burner 74–82 19–27
New standard model 78–86 23–30
Mid-efficiency furnace 83–89 28–33
Integrated space/tap water (mid-efficiency) 83–89 28–33 space
40–44 water
Natural
Gas
Conventional 60 Base
Vent damper with non-continuous pilot light 62–67 3–10
Mid-efficiency 78–84 23–28
High-efficiency condensing furnace 89–97 33–38
Integrated space/tap water (condensing) 89–96 33–38 space
44–48 water
Electricity Electric baseboards 100
Electric furnace or boiler 100
Air-source heat pump 1.7 COP**
Earth-energy system
(ground-source heat pump)
2.6 COP**
Propane Conventional 62 Base
Vent damper with non-continuous pilot light 64–69 3–10
Mid-efficiency 79–85 21–27
Condensing 87–94 29–34
Wood Central furnace 45–55
Conventional stove (properly located) 55–70
“High-tech ”stove*** (properly located) 70–80
Advanced combustion fireplace 50–70
Pellet stove 55–80
* “Base” represents the energy consumed by a standard furnace. 
** COP =Coefficient of performance, a measure of the heat delivered by a heat pump over the heating season per unit of electricity consumed. 
*** CSA B415 or EPA Phase II tested.

Upgrading a Gas System

If you are thinking of converting your gas furnace to a more efficient gas heating system, you may be interested in determining the savings you could expect. Table 2 and the following formula can provide you with reasonably accurate figures. You need to know your annual fuel cost and the type of heating technology you are using.

Annual $ Savings = A – B
———— X C
A

A = Seasonal efficiency of proposed system
B = Seasonal efficiency of existing system
C = Present annual fuel cost

Example: How much would you save by changing from a conventional gas furnace to a high-efficiency gas furnace at 96 percent efficiency if your present annual gas cost for space heating is $800?

The seasonal efficiency of the new condensing furnace is 96 percent, and the efficiency of your present gas furnace is 60 percent. Hence, A =96 percent, B =60 percent C =$800.

Annual $ Savings = 96 – 60
————— X 800 = $300
96

In this example, you would save $300 a year in energy costs and you would eliminate the need for a chimney.

Table2. Gas Heating Appliances – Features and Efficiency Ranges
Type Features Seasonal
Efficiency
(AFUE) (%)
Conventional furnace1
  • chimney
  • draft hood
  • with continuously lit pilot light
  • with electronic ignition and vent damper
60
62–67
Conventional boiler1
  • chimney
  • draft hood
  • with continuously lit pilot light
  • with electronic ignition and vent damper
55–65
60–70
Standard-efficiency furnace1
  • chimney or side wall vent
  • draft hood
  • electric ignition
  • powered exhaust
78–84
Standard-efficiency boiler1
  • similar to mid-efficiency furnace
80–88
Condensing furnace2
  • no chimney
  • no draft hood
  • electric ignition
  • multi-stage heat exchanger
  • condenses water vapour from flue gases
  • PVC or ABS flue pipe to side wall
90–97
Condensing boiler 2
  • similar to condensing furnace
89–99
Conversion burners for oil equipment1
  • chimney
  • pilot light or electric ignition
  • special barometric damper or draft hood
63–68
Direct-vent wall furnace1
  • vent
  • sealed combustion
  • pilot light or electric ignition
70–82
Room heaters1
  • vent
  • pilot light or electric ignition
  • draft hood or sealed combustion
60–82
1If this appliance is fired with propane rather than natural gas, add 2 percent to the efficiency.
2 If a condensing appliance is fired with propane rather than natural gas, subtract 2 percent from the efficiency.

Changing Your Energy Source

You can use the following procedure to compare the cost of heating with various energy sources, such as oil, electricity, natural gas, propane or wood. First, find out the cost of the energy sources you wish to compare and decide what types of heating technologies you might wish to use.

Determine the Price of Energy Sources in Your Area

Call your local fuel and electricity suppliers to find out the cost of energy sources in your area. This should be the total cost delivered to your home, and it should include any basic cost that some suppliers might charge, along with necessary rentals, such as a propane tank. Be sure to get the prices for the energy sources in the same units as shown in Table 3. Write the costs in the spaces provided. If your local natural gas price is given in gigajoules (GJ) , you can convert it to cubic metres (m3) by multiplying the price per GJ by 0. 0375. For example, $5.17/GJ x 0. 0375 = $0.19/m3.

Table 3. Energy Content and Local Price of Various Energy Sources
Energy Soure Energy Content Local Unit Price
Metric Imperial
Electricity 3.6 MJ/kWh 3 413 Btu/kWh $0._____ /kWh
Oil 38.2 MJ/litre 140 000 Btu/gal (US) $0._____ /litre
Natural Gas 37.5 MJ/m³ 1 007 Btu/ft³ $0._____m³
Propane 25.3 MJ/litre 92 700 Btu/gal (US) $0._____litre
Hardwood* 30 600 MJ/cord 28 000 000 Btu/cord _____$/cord
Softwood* 18 700 MJ/cord 17 000 000 Btu/cord _____$/cord
Wood Pellets 19 800 MJ/cord 20 000 000 Btu/cord _____$/cord
Conversion: 1000 MJ= 1 gigajoule (GJ)
* The figure provided for wood are for a “full” cord, measuring 
1.2m x 1.2m x 2.4m (4 ft. x 4 ft. x 8ft.)

Select the Type of Heating Equipment

Choose the type of equipment you want to compare from the list of equipment types inTable 2. Note the efficiency figures in the column titled Seasonal Efficiency. Using these figures, you can calculate the savings you can achieve by upgrading an older system to a newer, more energy-efficient one or by choosing higher efficiency equipment with alternative energy sources.

Determine Your Home’s Annual Heating Load

If you know your heating bill and the unit cost of your energy source, you can determine your Annual Heating Load in gigajoules from the following equation. Or you may wish to use our Heating cost calculator.

Annual Heating Load = Heating Bill      Seasonal Efficiency
——————  x  ——————————  x  Energy Content
100 000          Energy Cost/Unit

If you don’t have a heating bill, you can estimate your annual heating load in GJ fromTable 4by selecting the house type and location that is closest to your own.

If your bill also includes tap water heating from the same energy source, and even equipment rentals, you can still calculate your annual heating load, but it will require a little more care and calculation to separate out only your heating portion.

Example – Oil : You have an oil bill of $1,220, an oil cost of $0.329/litre and an old conventional oil furnace and burner with a seasonal efficiency of 60 percent.

Annual Heating Load =  1220                   60
————  x  ——————————  x 38.2 = 85 GJ
100 000       Energy Cost/Unit

Example – Natural Gas: Your annual bill for space heating with natural gas is $687, gas costs $0.22/m3, and you have an old conventional gas furnace with a seasonal efficiency of 60 percent. The energy content of natural gas is 37.5 MJ/m3.

Annual Heating Load =   687                   60
————  x  ——————————  x 37.5 = 70 GJ
100 000       Energy Cost/Unit

The annual heating cost is calculated as follows:

Energy Cost/Unit        Annual Heating Load
Heating Cost = —————————–  x  ———————————  x  100,000 = $
Energy Content         Seasonal Efficiency

Enter the cost per unit of energy and divide it by the energy content of the energy source; both numbers come from Table 3.

Select the annual heating load for your type of housing and location from Table 4; divide it by the seasonal efficiency of the proposed heating system from Table 1 or 2.

Multiply the results of these two calculations, then multiply that result by 100 000. The result should give you an approximate heating cost for your house. If you know your actual annual heating costs, as well as the type of heating system you have, you can modify the heating load originally taken from Table 4 to suit your specific house.

Sample Calculation – Oil : You have a new semi-detached home in Fort McMurray and you would like to find out what the annual heating cost would be with a standard-efficiency oil furnace at 83 percent efficiency. To use the above formula, we can define the cost of oil as $0.30/L, the house heating load as 80 and the energy content as 38.2.

$0.30           80
Annual cost of oil heating = —————  x  ———  x  100,000 = $757
38.2            83

Sample Calculation – Gas : You have an old detached home in Edmundston, and you would like to find out what the annual heating cost would be with a high-efficiency condensing natural gas furnace at 96 percent efficiency with gas costing $0.18/m3. The house heating load is 120 GJ, and the energy content is 37.5 MJ/m3.

$0.18           120
Annual cost of gas heating = —————  x  ———  x  100,000 = $600
37.5             83

Sample Calculation – Electricity : You have an new detached home in Toronto and you would like to know what it would cost you annually to heat your dwelling with an electric force-air system with a seasonal efficiency of 100 per cent. Using the above equation, use an electricity cost of $0.0826/kWh, a heating load of 80 and an energy content of 3.6.

$0.0826          80
Annual cost of heating with electricity = —————  x  ———  x  100,000 = $1835.55
3.6             100

To compare your heating cost to those of other types of heating systems or energy sources, replace the numbers in the formula with the appropriate ones for your comparison using Table 1 or 2. and Table 3. Or you may wish to use our Heating Cost Calculator.

Table 4. Typical Annual Heating Loads in Gigajoules (GJ) for Various Housing Types in Canadian Cities
City 
Old Detached New Detached New Semi-Detached Town-house
Victoria 85 60 45 30
Prince George 150 110 80 60
Calgary 120 90 65 50
Edmonton 130 95 70 55
Fort McMurray/
Prince Albert
140 105 80 60
Regina/Saskatoon/
Winnipeg
130 90 70 50
Whitehorse 155 115 85 60
Yellowknife 195 145 110 80
Thunder Bay 130 95 70 55
Sudbury 120 90 65 50
Ottawa 110 75 55 40
Toronto 95 65 45 35
Windsor 80 55 40 30
Montréal 110 80 60 45
Québec 115 85 65 50
Chicoutimi 125 90 70 55
Saint John 105 75 60 45
Edmundston 120 90 65 50
Charlottetown 110 80 60 45
Halifax 100 75 55 40
St. John’s 120 85 60 45

Note:New”means houses built in 1990 or later, and ”old”means houses built before 1990. Due to construction practices, “weatherizing ” and re-insulating (which can be different from house to house), these figures are meant to be used only as general guidelines; they should not substitute for an accurate heating requirement determination.

Assumptions: 
Old detached – approximately 186 m2 (2000 sq. ft.) 
New detached – approximately 186 m2 (2000 sq. ft.) 
New semi-detached – approximately 139 m2 (1500 sq. ft.) 
Townhouse – inside unit, approximately 93 m2 (1000 sq. ft.)

Use our Heating Cost Calculator

What new high efficiency gas furnace regulations mean to the Muskoka homeowner

Monday, August 16th, 2010

What does the new efficiency standard for gas furnaces mean to home owners?

A new national minimum energy performance standard for gas furnaces will come into effect on December 31, 2009. Gas furnaces for most residential applications manufactured as of that date must have a minimum fuel efficiency level of 90% AFUE. The final Regulation evolved over many years of consultation with stakeholders – including manufacturers, distributors and contractors in the heating industry as well as utilities and provincial governments. It was published in the Canada Gazette Part II, on December 24, 2008, after a 75 day public review and comment period. It applies to gas-fired central forced air furnaces that use propane or natural gas, but does not include furnaces for mobile homes or recreational vehicles.

This new level of efficiency is achieved primarily through “condensing technology”. Therefore, these furnaces are commonly referred to as condensing gas furnaces. They typically use a larger heat exchanger to condense the water vapour in the exhaust gas, thereby extracting more usable heat. This type of technology has been used in furnaces for more than twenty years. In Canada, more than 60% of gas furnaces sold in 2008 were condensing furnaces.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is the Government implementing this new standard?

The new Regulation is part of Canada’s ongoing efforts to address climate change and improve the environment. Condensing furnaces are also cost-effective for homeowners in that the fuel consumption will be reduced by about 12% when compared to furnaces at the current minimum standard (78% efficient). The actual savings will depend on the size of the furnace and the construction of your home.

What does the new gas furnace Regulation mean to me?

The new gas furnace Regulation may not currently affect you. The Regulation has nothing to do with the furnace that is currently in your house, and only affects furnaces that are manufactured on or after December 31, 2009. You can keep your existing furnace for as long as you wish. Any replacement furnace manufactured on or after December 31, 2009 and imported or shipped interprovincially for sale or lease in Canada will need to comply with the new gas furnace Regulation.

How is the new high efficiency furnace different than the furnace I have now?

You may already have a high efficiency furnace, in which case there would be no substantial difference. If you currently own a standard efficiency furnace, the new condensing furnace will be different from yours in several respects. The condensing technology used in a high efficiency furnace makes it more efficient than a standard efficiency furnace (minimum 78% efficient) by using a larger heat exchanger to condense the exhaust gases. The condensate resulting from this process needs to be disposed of, often to a floor drain or through the basement floor. This type of furnace will also be vented in a different way than your standard efficiency model. Due to the lower exhaust gas temperature, a condensing furnace is vented using approved venting material, commonly through a side wall.

What is AFUE?

Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) is a way of referring to a furnace’s heating efficiency. It compares the amount of heat actually delivered to your house to the amount of fuel supplied to the furnace. The number can be used to compare one furnace’s efficiency with another. The higher the AFUE is, the lower the fuel usage for a given heating season will be.

Will I be able to buy a new standard (mid-) efficiency furnace to replace my current one after December 31, 2009?

You may be able to purchase a standard efficiency furnace as distributors deplete their current inventory of products manufactured prior to December 31, 2009.

If my standard (mid-) efficiency furnace breaks down, can I have it repaired?

If your heating contractor determines that the furnace is repairable, you can repair it without having to replace it.

I heard that high efficiency furnaces cost more.

In general high efficiency furnaces cost more than standard efficiency furnaces. However, the higher costs are typically offset by future fuel cost savings.

Can I use my existing chimney to exhaust my new high efficiency furnace?

In most applications a high efficiency furnace will have an approved vent that is commonly vented through a side wall. Sometimes the approved venting material can be routed through your existing chimney. A heating contractor can help determine the venting requirements for your house.

Can I get rid of my existing chimney if I get a high efficiency furnace?

It depends. You may still require your existing chimney for exhausting other gas appliances that you already have in your home, such as a gas-fired hot water tank. Your heating contractor can help determine your venting requirements.

I don’t have an obvious place to run a new vent. What do I do?

In some situations venting your new furnace is more complex (e.g., narrow, attached houses with front and rear obstructions, closely spaced doorways and large windows or full width porches and/or decks). Your heating contractor should be able to provide you with a range of options.

Will my new high efficiency furnace qualify for a grant in the ecoENERGY Retrofit – Homes program?

Please see the ecoENERGY Grant Table for details on eligible improvements/retrofits.

Will my high efficiency gas furnace qualify for a provincial or utility rebate program?

Each program is designed differently. You will need to verify the eligibility with your utility or province.

Are furnaces designed for use in mobile homes affected?

Furnaces that are specifically designed for use in a mobile home or recreational vehicle are not subject to the Regulation.

Are through-the-wall furnaces covered by the Regulation?

A through-the-wall gas furnace is one that is installed in a small space, usually a closet, and has one side exposed to the outdoors. These units may have an air conditioning component along with a heating component. They are typically found in multiple unit residential buildings or apartments. This type of furnace will be required to meet an AFUEof 90% on or after December 31, 2012.

Why new furnace fan motors save you money

Sunday, August 15th, 2010

High-Efficiency Variable-Speed Blower Motors

It is a common practice to run the furnace fan continuously at low speed to improve the comfort of residents. In many parts of Canada, homeowners often install central air-conditioning systems that utilize the furnace blower. However, a constantly running fan dramatically increases annual electrical consumption by the furnace beyond levels consumed by the traditional demand-only mode of operation during the heating season.

The standard type of alternating current (AC) motor used in most furnaces – the four-speed permanent split capacitor (PSC) type – is not the most energy efficient, particularly when operated at low speeds. Many furnaces now use high-efficiency, variable-speed, brushless direct current (DC) motors. When used continuously, a high-efficiency motor uses less than one third of the electricity consumed by a standard motor and eventually pays for itself in reduced electrical bills.

The electrical savings from a furnace equipped with a high-efficiency motor will be offset somewhat by the extra heat that the furnace must supply. However, when central air conditioning is used, the high-efficiency fan-blower motor will provide additional savings since the heat from the inefficient motor no longer needs to be cooled.

Checklist: Buying a Heating or Cooling System

Saturday, August 14th, 2010


Checklist: Buying a Heating or Cooling System

With 60% of your annual electricity bill going toward cooling and heating, it makes sense to look for ways to reduce your

usage and your bills.

With the COOL SAVINGS REBATE program, you can save up to $550* on ENERGY STAR® qualified central cooling and heating

systems† purchased from and installed by a participating contractor. Most importantly, you’ll continue to save up to

$350 per year on your electricity bill.

General Considerations

• Choose a Contractor: Look for a licensed and experienced professional. Ask family/friends for recommendations,

and remember, a COOL SAVINGS REBATE participating contractor can help you choose quality, energy efficient

equipment that is eligible to receive rebates. To find a participating contractor in your area, go to:

everykilowattcounts.ca/coolsavings

• Equipment sizing: It is important that your system is sized correctly. Over-sized systems will use more energy and provide

less comfort. Your contractor should perform a heat loss/gain calculation that considers such things as:

• age of the home, square footage, home’s exposure to the sun

• ENERGY STAR qualified equipment: has the same features as standard products but also incorporates energy saving

technology. They can save up to 15% a year on your cooling and heating bills.

• Programmable Thermostat: Maximize your savings by having a participating COOL SAVINGS REBATE contractor

replace your old non-programmable thermostat with one that is programmable.

• Cost/Quotes:

• Over time, a more efficient system’s lower operating cost will more than pay for the higher upfront cost.

• Review your options. When comparing quotes, look at the type of equipment as well as the price.

• Warranty: Ask about the manufacturer’s warranty.

• Maintenance: Without regular servicing, cooling and heating systems waste energy and are more likely to break

down. Ask your contractor about annual servicing and also what maintenance you should perform (for example,

replacing filters).

Geothermal Heat Pumps

Friday, August 13th, 2010

Geothermal Heat Pumps

Homeowners in virtually every region of the country are enjoying a high level of comfort and significantly reducing their energy use today by heating and cooling their homes with geothermal heat pumps (GHPs).

Geothermal heat pump technology relies primarily on the Earth’s natural thermal energy, a renewable resource, to heat or cool a home or commercial building. The only additional energy GHP systems require is the small amount of electricity they employ to concentrate what Mother Nature provides and then to circulate high-quality heating and cooling throughout the building.

Homeowners who use GHP systems give them superior ratings because of their ability to deliver comfortably warm air, even on the coldest winter days, and because of their extraordinarily low operating costs. As an additional benefit, GHP systems can provide inexpensive hot water, either to supplement or replace entirely the output of a conventional, domestic water heater.

Geothermal heating and cooling is cost effective because it uses energy so efficiently. This makes it very environmentally friendly, too. For these reasons, agencies like the Environmental Protection Agency and the Department of Energy recognize it.


Owners of geothermal heat pump systems can relax and enjoy high-quality heating and cooling year after year. These systems work on a different principle than an ordinary furnace/air conditioning system, and they require little maintenance or attention from homeowners. Furnaces must create heat by burning a fuel–typically natural gas, propane, or fuel oil. With geothermal heating systems, there’s no need to create heat, hence no need for chemical combustion. Instead, the Earth’s natural heat is collected in winter through a series of pipes, called a loop, installed below the surface of the ground or submersed in a pond or lake. Fluid circulating in the loop carries this heat to the home. An indoor geothermal heat pump then uses electrically-driven compressors and heat exchangers in a vapor compression cycle, the same principle employed in a refrigerator, to concentrate the Earth’s energy and release it inside the home at a higher temperature. In typical systems, duct fans distribute the heat to various rooms.

In summer, the process is reversed in order to cool the home. Excess heat is drawn from the home, expelled to the loop, and absorbed by the Earth. GHP systems provide cooling in the same way that a refrigerator keeps its contents cool–by drawing heat from the interior and moving it to an outside space.

Geothermal heat pump systems do the work that ordinarily requires two appliances, a furnace and an air conditioner. They can be located indoors because there’s no need to exchange heat with the outdoor air. They’re so quiet homeowners don’t even realize they’re on. They are also compact. Typically, they are installed in a basement or attic, and some are small enough to fit atop a closet shelf. The indoor location also means the equipment is protected from mechanical breakdowns that could result from exposure to harsh weather.

Geothermal heat pumps work differently than conventional heat pumps that use the outdoor air as their heat source or heat sink. GHP systems don’t have to work as hard (which means they use less energy) because they draw heat from a source whose temperature is moderate. The temperature of the ground or groundwater a few feet beneath the Earth’s surface remains relatively constant throughout the year, even though the outdoor air temperature may fluctuate greatly with the change of seasons. At a depth of approximately six feet, for example, the temperature of soil in most of the world’s regions remains stable between 45 F and 70 F. This is why well water drawn from below ground tastes so cool even on the hottest summer days.

In winter, it’s much easier to capture heat from the soil at a moderate 50o F. than from the atmosphere when the air temperature is below zero. This is also why GHP  systems encounter no difficulty blowing comfortably warm air through a home’s ventilation system, even when the outdoor air temperature is extremely cold.2 Conversely, in summer, the relatively cool ground absorbs a home’s waste heat more readily than the warm outdoor air.

Studies show that approximately 70 percent of the energy used in a geothermal heating and cooling system is renewable energy from the ground. The remainder is clean, electrical energy which is employed to concentrate heat and transport it from one location to another. In winter, the ground soaks up solar energy and provides a barrier to cold air. In summer, the ground heats up more slowly than the outside air.

Making Hot Water

GHP systems can also provide all or part of a household’s hot water. One economical way to obtain a portion of domestic hot water is through the addition of a desuperheater to the GHP unit. A desuperheater is a small, auxiliary heat exchanger that uses superheated gases from the heat pump’s compressor to heat water. This hot water then circulates through a pipe to the home’s water heater tank. In summer, when the GeoExchange system is in the cooling mode, the desuperheater merely uses excess heat that would otherwise be expelled to the loop. When the GHP unit is running frequently, homeowners can obtain all of their hot water in this manner virtually for free. A conventional water heater meets household hot water needs in winter if the desuperheater isn’t producing enough, and in spring and fall when the system may not be operating at all.

Because GHP systems heat water so efficiently, many manufacturers today are also offering triple function systems.  Triple function systems provide heating, cooling and hot water. They use a separate heat exchanger to meet all of a household’s hot water needs.


The Earth Connection

Once installed, the ground loop in a GHP system remains out of sight beneath the Earth’s surface while it works unobtrusively to tap the heating and cooling nature provides. The loop is made of a material that is extraordinarily durable but which allows heat to pass through efficiently. This is important so it doesn’t retard the exchange of heat between the Earth and the fluid in the loop. Loop manufacturers typically use high-density polyethylene, a tough plastic. When installers connect sections of pipe, they heat fuse the joints. This makes the connections stronger than the pipe itself. Some loop manufacturers offer up to 50-year warranties. The fluid in the loop is water or an environmentally safe antifreeze solution that circulates through the pipes in a closed system.

Another type of geothermal heating and cooling is direct exchange (DX), which utilizes copper piping buried underground. As refrigerant is pumped through the loop, heat is transferred directly through the copper to the earth.

To ensure good results, the piping should be installed by professionals who follow procedures established by the International Ground Source Heat Pump Association (IGSHPA). Installers should be certified by IGSHPA or be able to show equivalent training by manufacturers or other recognized authorities at a recognized institution.

The length of the ground loop depends upon a number of factors, including the type of loop configuration used; a home’s heating and air conditioning load; soil conditions; local climate; and landscaping. Larger homes with larger space conditioning requirements generally need larger loops than smaller homes. Homes in climates where temperatures are extreme also generally require larger loops. A heat loss/heat gain analysis should be conducted before the loop is installed.


Types of Loops

Most loops for residential systems are installed either horizontally or vertically in the ground, or submersed in water in a pond or lake. In most cases, the fluid runs through the loop in a closed system, but open-loop systems may be used where local codes permit. Each type of loop configuration has its own, unique advantages and disadvantages, as explained below:

Horizontal Ground Closed Loops. This configuration is usually the most cost effective when adequate yard space is available and trenches are easy to dig. Workers use trenchers or backhoes to dig the trenches three to six feet below the ground, then lay a series of parallel plastic pipes. They backfill the trench, taking care not to allow sharp rocks or debris to damage the pipes. Fluid runs through the pipe in a closed system. A typical horizontal loop will be 400 to 600 feet long per ton of heating and cooling capacity. The pipe may be curled into a slinky shape in order to fit more of it into shorter trenches, but while this reduces the amount of land space needed it may require more pipe. Horizontal ground loops are easiest to install while a home is under construction. However, new types of digging equipment that allow horizontal boring are making it possible to retrofit GeoExchange systems into existing homes with minimal disturbance to lawns. Horizontal boring machines can even allow loops to be installed under existing buildings or driveways.

Vertical Ground Closed Loops. This type of loop configuration is ideal for homes where yard space is insufficient to permit horizontal buildings with large heating and cooling loads, when the Earth is rocky close to the surface, or for retrofit applications where minimum disruption of the landscaping is desired. Contractors bore vertical holes in the ground 150 to 450 feet deep. Each hole contains a single loop of pipe with a U-bend at the bottom. After the pipe is inserted, the hole is backfilled or grouted. Each vertical pipe is then connected to a horizontal pipe, which is also concealed underground. The horizontal pipe then carries fluid in a closed system to and from the geothermal heat pump. Vertical loops are generally more expensive to install, but require less piping than horizontal loops because the Earth deeper down is cooler in summer and warmer in winter.

Pond Closed Loops. If a home is near a body of surface water, such as a pond or lake, this type of loop design may be the most economical. The fluid circulates through polyethylene piping in a closed system, just as it does in the ground loops. Typically, workers run the pipe to the water, then submerge coils of piping under the water.  Pond loops are typically used only if the water level never drops below six to eight feet at its lowest level to assure sufficient heat-transfer capability. Properly designed pond loops result in no adverse impacts on the aquatic system.

Open Loop System. This type of loop configuration is used less frequently, but may be employed cost-effectively if ground water is plentiful. Open loop systems, in fact, are the simplest to install and have been used successfully for decades in areas where local codes permit. In this type of system, ground water from an aquifer is piped directly from the well to the building, where it transfers its heat to a heat pump. After it leaves the building, the water is pumped back into the same aquifer via a second well–called a discharge well–located at a suitable distance from the first. Local environmental officials should be consulted whenever an open loop system is being considered.

Standing Column Well System. Standing column wells have become an established technology in some regions, especially the northeastern United States. Standing wells are typically six inches in diameter and may be as deep as 1500 feet. Temperate water from the bottom of the well is withdrawn, circulated through the heat pump’s heat exchanger, and returned to the top of the water column in the same well. Usually, the well also serves to provide potable water. However, ground water must be plentiful for a standing well system to operate effectively. If the standing well is installed where the water table is too deep, pumping would be prohibitively costly. Under normal circumstances, the water diverted for building (potable) use is replaced by constant-temperature ground water, which makes the system act like a true open-loop system. If the well-water temperature climbs too high or drops too low, water can be “bled” from the system to allow ground water to restore the well-water temperature to the normal operating range. Permitting conditions for discharging the bleed water vary from locality to locality, but are eased by the fact that the quantities are small and the water is never treated with chemicals.

Other loop designs are also being used. In a few places, for example, home builders have installed large community loops, which are shared by all of the homes in a housing development.


Purchasing a System

To ensure they receive the highest-quality equipment, system design and installation, consumers should consider the following guidelines when shopping for a system:

Ratings and Certification: Look for equipment that is certified by the Air-Conditioning, Heating and Refrigeration Institute (AHRI), a non-profit organization that rates the performance of heating and cooling equipment. Certified equipment carries the AHRI seal.

Warrantys: Manufacturers’ terms of warranty vary. To assure a high-quality installation, seek a performance guarantee on the installed system, as opposed to coverage limited to the heat pump itself.

Sizing: GHP systems that are too large waste energy and do not provide proper humidity control. Check to see that the contractor carefully determines your home’s heating and cooling requirements using accepted procedures, such as those recommended by the Air Conditioning Contractors Association. The actual size of the system should be within 15 percent of the calculated load.

System Design: While designing a residential heating and cooling system is not particularly complicated, always use experienced contractors. The contractor should carefully select the size of the system, the size and design of the ground loop, and the type of fluid that will circulate through it. The contractor should also examine ways to use the  system to provide hot water. Finally, the contractor should examine your home to ensure the ductwork is designed and installed properly to prevent leaks, as well as to ensure it is properly insulated and has window glazings and other energy-efficiency features. Minimizing heating and cooling needs reduces the required size, hence the cost, of the heating and cooling system.

Sound Investment

Geothermal heat pump systems are becoming the system of choice in many parts of the United States as consumers learn more about their aesthetic advantages and long-term value, and as they become more widely available.

These systems are no longer just for the affluent, a reputation it once held because typical early buyers were owners of upscale homes. They wanted the quiet comfort GHP systems provide, and they were more than willing–and could afford–to pay the cost premium associated with early systems. This is because the extraordinarily low operating costs of GHP systems more than make up for any higher installation costs within a few years. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, GHP systems save homeowners 30-70 percent in heating costs, and 20-50 percent in cooling costs, compared to conventional systems, and also save money in other ways. They are highly reliable, require little maintenance, and are built to last for decades. They add considerably to the value of homes.

Today, homeowners in all income brackets can take advantage of the benefits of geothermal heating and cooling. Initial costs have declined substantially as many more builders and heating and cooling contractors nationwide make GHP systems available, and as innovative techniques enable the ground loops to be installed more quickly and for lower cost.

What’s more, some electric utilities around the nation now have incentive programs and low-interest financing programs which can make GHP systems even more affordable. Many financial institutions also now allow home buyers to qualify for larger mortgages if they purchase a house that utilizes a GHP system. The reduction in monthly energy bills more than offsets the slightly higher mortgage payment. With such mortgages, homeowners with GHP systems can begin saving money from day one, then go on saving year after year!

Today, the major barrier to wider use of this marvelous technology is the fact that many consumers simply aren’t aware it’s there.

A Wise Choice

Geothermal heating and cooling is a smart investment for consumers who want a system that provides a high level of comfort and low monthly energy bills for as long as they own their homes.

Footnotes:

1 A study by the Environmental Protection Agency, Space Conditioning: The Next Frontier (Office of Air and Radiation, 430-R-93-004), found that geothermal heating and cooling systems are much more efficient than competing fuel technologies when all losses in the fuel cycle, including waste heat at the powerplants during the generation of electricity, are accounted for. High-efficiency GHP systems are on average 48 percent more efficient than the best gas furnaces and more than 75 percent more efficient than oil furnaces. The best GHP systems even outperformed the best gas technology, gas heat pumps, by an average of 36 percent in the heating mode and 43 percent in the cooling mode.

2 Surveys by utility companies indicate a higher level of consumer satisfaction for GHP systems than for conventional systems. Polls consistently show that more than 95 percent of all GHP customers would recommend such systems to a family member or friend.

Cool Savings Rebate

Friday, August 13th, 2010

With 60% of your yearly electricity bill going toward heating and cooling your home, it makes good sense to look for ways to reduce your usage and your bills.

That’s where the COOL SAVINGS REBATE Program comes in. If you’re looking to replace your old central air conditioning or heating systems with ENERGY STAR® qualified models, then we have attractive rebates to help you do just that. If you have never had a programmable thermostat installed in your home, this may be the time to consider one since we have rebates for those as well!

To start on your way to rebate savings, find a participating heating and cooling contractor, click HERE.  
An electricity-efficient furnace and an ENERGY STAR qualified central air conditioning system will help you:

  • Save electricity and money
  • Make your home more comfortable

And you’ll be doing something good for the environment at the same time!

Good news! By making the important decision to replace your heating and/or cooling system with more efficient models, you could qualify for up to $550 in rebates.


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