Gravenhurst Plumbing Heating & ElectricalPhone: 705-687-3402, E. 7 |
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Mr Chip LougheadGravenhurst Plumbing Heating & Electrical |
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Archive for June, 2010
How do I choose a geothermal contractor?
Wednesday, June 30th, 2010How to plan for a geothermal installation in a new home or cottage
Tuesday, June 29th, 2010Energy-Efficient Home Design
Your decision to install a GXS in your new home is a major step toward making it one of the most energyefficient homes in the country. But your home is a system, and the GXS is just one part of it. The other home design choices you make will affect how much you pay for your energy, your future energy costs and how comfortable you are in your home. These include the following:
- the type and level of insulation in its walls, ceilings and floors;
- the type of windows you choose and the direction they face;
- how airtight your house is;
- the ventilation system;
- the types of appliances and lighting; and
- the landscaping around your home.
There are many energy-saving options you can choose from. Natural Resources Canada offers a wealth of information on how to make your home more energy efficient.
When you make your new home more energy efficient, you also reduce the size and cost of the GXS you need. You can use a smaller, less costly heat pump, earth loop and distribution system.
Location of In-ground Equipment and Services
Make sure there is adequate clearance between the GXS and other in-ground items like swimming pools, wells and septic systems. Allow enough space to manoeuver the chain trencher, backhoe, drill rig or other equipment needed to install the GXS; the work should be done so as to cause as little disturbance as possible to existing pavements, walkways, easements and other rights of access. Pipe locations should be drawn on a site plan to reduce the risk of damage in the future.
The loop should not cross other underground services (gas lines, water mains, sewers, buried telephone and electrical lines); also, you should make sure they are protected from damage and freezing both during installation and after. All installation should meet the CSA standards.
How to plan for a retro fit geothermal installation
Monday, June 28th, 2010Existing Site and Services
Access To Site
A GXS draws heat from the earth. Burying a ground loop for a GXS requires excavation around your home. Other services are usually buried in the ground already, including electrical cables, water lines, sewer lines, septic fields and gas lines, that must be avoided when you dig. There may be trees and shrubs that you would prefer not to disturb. On a smaller property, it may be impossible to get to the best possible site with heavy equipment like a backhoe or large, truck-mounted drill rig.
Sometimes there are alternatives. Contractors in some areas specialize in the installation of earth loops on smaller lots. In some areas, it may be possible to drill boreholes deep enough to cause only minimal disturbance to a yard, or drill the boreholes with a compact drill rig that can reach the site easily. A chain trencher may be small enough to fit into the backyard.
Make sure you know the type of equipment the contractor is planning to use, and that both you and the contractor understand exactly where the loop will be located. Many contractors will mark the location of the earth loop with small flags or spraypaint markers on the ground.
Tell the contractor about any landscaping features you want to protect. Before work begins, answer the following questions: Who will be responsible for final landscaping work after the loop is completed? Will the contractor be installing the loop, or will the work be sub-contracted? If the work is done by a sub-contractor, will the contractor be at the site when the loop is installed? Will the contractor guarantee the installation?
Adequacy of Existing Electrical System and Ductwork
One of the benefits of a GXS is its low power demand. Although it is often possible to install a system in an existing home without upgrading the electrical service, you must verify that this is the case. If you are replacing an electric heating system, your existing electric panel will probably be adequate. If you are replacing a fossil fuel furnace, however, you may well need to upgrade your service to accommodate a GXS, especially if you include an electric auxiliary heater
in the system.
Most electric or fossil fuel furnaces designed for residential use in the past were intended to raise the temperature of the air circulating through them by 20–30°C. This was done to reduce the airflow needed to deliver heat to your home and minimize the ductwork size (and cost). Heat pumps in a GXS typically are designed to raise the air temperature by only about 10–15°C. Because of this, you have to move more air through your ducts if your new GXS is to deliver the same amount of heat to your home.
Your contractor may recommend changing some of the ductwork in an existing home to accommodate the greater air flow you need. This will make the system more efficient and reduce potential air noise problems. The contractor also should recommend lining the supply air and return air plenums with acoustic insulation, and installing flexible connections in the plenums connecting the heat pump to the ductwork system.
Site Services
As noted above, you must do a thorough check into the location of underground services around your home. In addition, you should do a survey to find where your property lines are, as well as the positioning of easements and required property setbacks. Your neighbours’ domestic water wells may be affected. Similarly, your neighbours’ wells may affect the performance of your open-loop GXS.
Effect on Landscaping
The installation of the earth loop for a GXS will always cause some disturbance to the landscaping around your home. A horizontal loop will require significantly more excavation than other types of loops, although any loop installation will require some digging around your home. The repairs to the landscaping take time, because the earth takes time to settle back into the trenches. The length of time depends to some extent on the type of soil on your property. Heavy clay soils tend to take longer to settle than looser, sandier soil.
In some soil conditions, the contractor may recommend that the dirt remain mounded over the trench for several months, or even for the winter. The dirt will settle as the rain soaks the trench over time or the spring runoff breaks down the larger clumps of earth. If the extra earth is removed, there probably will be some settling, which will result in a dip in the lawn wherever the trenching was done. The results are generally better if the earth is allowed to settle naturally.
You can speed up the soil settling by compacting of the soil every 10–20 cm as the trench is backfilled, although the labour cost can be high. Soaking the soil in the trench can accelerate the settling process as well.
Once the soil has settled, there will be nothing on your lawn to show that a ground loop is buried on your property.
Effect on Adjoining Structures
Make sure your GXS is designed so as not to disturb trees, walls, overhead wires and other landscaping features. Allow space for the trenching or drilling equipment as well as the excavated soil. No part of your system or the coil you dig up should cross a property line without the written approval of your neighbour. Also, make sure you avoid crossing other underground services, like gas and water mains, telephone lines, power cables, sewer lines and drains, and protect them from damage or freezing. An earth loop must never be placed under a septic tank or cross the septic system’s drain.
In general, GXS piping should be placed well away from other services to avoid damage during repair operations.
When the earth loop installation is complete, the CSA standard states that you should make a map pinpointing its location. The simplest method of mapping the earth loop is to measure each significant point of the loop (such as the boreholes and the end of a trench) from two separate, permanent landmarks. For example, you can plot the location of a borehole from two corners of your home; this creates a triangle between the two points and the borehole, and makes it easy to find later. A map like this will be valuable when you (or possibly a future owner) want to make landscaping changes, such as installing a decorative fountain or planting a tree. The map should be placed in an envelope attached to the heat pump or some other safe place. If you are considering the purchase of a home with a GXS already installed, ask for a map or diagram of the loop system.
The CSA standard also states that a tracing wire or tape should be laid in the trench above the pipe, so the loop can be located with a metal detector. A wide foil tape can also be laid in
the trench on top of the pipe, to show that something is buried underneath.
What is the cost of geothermal?
Sunday, June 27th, 2010Geothermal FAQ Frequently Asked Questions
Saturday, June 26th, 2010GeoExchange General Questions
What is geoexchange technology?
What are the major benefits to the homeowner?
Can you be more specific about the environmental advantages?
Is geoexchange ‘Kyoto-compliant’ ‘Kyoto-friendly’ or a ‘green’ technology?
Is geoexchange used primarily in homes?
Improving the Air in Your Home: Indoor air quality is important
Friday, June 25th, 2010Improving the Air in Your Home
In today’s health conscious society, all of us take great interest in the quality of food we eat and the water we drink. What
about the air we breathe? In fact:
We eat approximately 2-3 lbs. of food per day.
We drink approximately 3-4 lbs. of water per day.
And we breathe approximately 30-40 lbs. of air per day.
When we think of air quality we often
think of air pollution from cars and
factories or smog, haze and ozone.
However, since you are reading this
article you undoubtedly have interest in
the quality of air in your home or place
of business. In fact, you may have
already realized that there is a lot of
information out there, much of it based
on extensive research done here in
Canada by organizations such as
Health Canada, the Research Division
of the Canada Mortgage and Housing
Corporation and the National Research
Council. It is significant to point out that
the results of the research in Canada,
is entirely consistent with information
presented by the Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA) in the U.S.
and the World Health Organization.
From all of this research there are
some important statements that help
define the impact of air quality on your
home and on your family:
• IAQ is important because one in
five Canadians has some form of
respiratory disease,
• Indoor air has 2-5 times as many
chemical pollutants as outdoor air;
• There are over 20,000 radon
induced lung cancer deaths per year
in North America
• Everyone can be affected by IAQ,
some more than others – the young,
the elderly, the ill.
• The effect of dampness and molds on
the respiratory health of children is
equal in power to that of parental
smoking.
We sometimes hear that by making
houses more energy efficient which
involves tightly sealing the home, this
practice is at fault for air quality
problems. However, indoor air quality
is more complex than this and there
are a number of factors that should
lead us to be concerned about the
quality of air in our homes.
• We spend far more time indoors
all year round – as much as 90%
of our time – especially now that
air conditioning is so popular. That
means 27 out of that 30 lbs of air
we breathe each day is indoor air
– much of it from our homes.
• We have introduced more
pollutants into houses – more
furnishings, more cleaning
chemicals, more personal hygiene
products and more recreational
activities. There at least 4,000 –
6,000 chemicals that may be
found in our houses. Moreover,
because we are inside more, we
often bring plants and pets into our
homes that add dust, dander,
pests and other pollutants.
• Our interest in better comfort,
lower noise and greater security
reduces the use of windows for
natural ventilation.
• Our expectations for comfort and
health have increased.
These important statements and facts
can be researched further in the helpful
articles and Frequently Asked
Questions on HRAI’s website or on the
websites of the CMHC or the EPA,
however, we suspect at this point most
visitors simply want to know 2 things:
1. How do I know if the air in my
home is healthy?
2. What can I do to make the air in
my home as healthy as possible?
We feel the professional HVAC
contractors represented by HRAI are in
a unique position to help you with
these important questions. Our
knowledge and experience with the
movement and control of heat, air and
moisture in buildings is very valuable
when diagnosing and resolving indoor
air quality.
With respect to knowing whether the
air in your home may be affecting the
breathing of your family, ask yourself
the following questions:
• Does any one in your household
suffer from asthma, allergies or
respiratory problems?
• Do their symptoms appear to be
worse when they are at home or in
specific places at home?
• Has your home under gone
significant changes such as the
replacement of windows, complete
renovation of a basement or an
addition in the last few years?
• Do you notice excessive window
condensation in winter or is your
basement damp or musty in the
summer?
• Do you feel the need to use air
fresheners or scented candles on
a regular basis to keep your home
feeling fresh?
• Do you find that odours linger in
your home from morning to
evening?
• Do you notice stains, spotting or
dampness on walls or excessive
dust on floors?
• Do visitors to your home suffer
from allergic reactions?
• Do pets live in your home?
If you answered yes to more than 2 or
3 of these questions, then a trained
and experienced HVAC professional is
in a unique position to help you both
diagnose and resolve underlying
issues that may be affecting the quality
of air your family is breathing.
When it comes to improving the quality
of air in your home, it is important to
recognize that there are many things
that you can do on your own and then
there are items that will require the
assistance of a qualified professional.
Usually, air quality improvements
require a systematic and integrated
approach – it is unlikely that any one
measure solves all problems – and
HRAI members have the training and
experience to help you find the most
cost effective ways to ensure the air
you breathe is as healthy as possible.
For more on the simple things you can
do on your own to improve the air in
your home look on the HRAI website.
To find a professional HRAI contractor
in your area that has the knowledge
and experience to help you cost
effectively diagnose and find solutions
to your air quality concerns click here.
applying to be designated as a WaterFurnace GeoPro Master
Thursday, June 24th, 2010Carbon Monoxide
Wednesday, June 23rd, 2010WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT CARBON MONOXIDE
To increase public awareness about the dangers of carbon monoxide poisoning, a Carbon Monoxide
Awareness Committee made up of fuels safety experts prepared the following guide to provide important
safety information you need to keep you and your family safe.
What is Carbon Monoxide?
Carbon Monoxide (also called CO) is a poisonous gas that you cannot see, smell or taste. It is often referred
to as the “silent killer”. CO is produced by the incomplete burning of fuels such as natural gas, propane,
heating oil, kerosene, coal, charcoal or wood.
Improperly installed or poorly maintained appliances that run on these fuels may create unsafe levels of CO.
In enclosed spaces such as your home, cottage or recreational vehicle, even a small amount of CO is
dangerous.
What are the symptoms of CO poisoning?
Exposure to CO can cause flu-like symptoms such as headaches, nausea, dizziness, burning eyes, confusion,
drowsiness and even loss of consciousness. In very severe cases, CO poisoning can cause brain damage and
death. The elderly, children, people with heart or respiratory conditions, and pets may be particularly sensitive
to CO and may feel the effects sooner.
What can create a CO hazard?
Conditions that can create a CO hazard include:
???? Fuel-burning appliances, venting systems and chimneys that have not been serviced and maintained
regularly by a qualified service technician or heating contractor.
???? A chimney blocked by a bird or squirrel’s nest, snow and ice or other debris.
???? Improper venting of a furnace and cracked furnace heat exchangers.
???? Exhaust fumes seeping into your home from a car running in an attached garage.
???? Using fuel-burning appliances designed for outdoor use (barbecues, lanterns, chainsaws, lawnmowers,
snowblowers) in a closed area (tent, recreational vehicle, cottage, workshop, garage).
???? Combustion gases spilling into a home if too much air is being consumed by a fireplace or exhausted by
kitchen/bathroom fans in a tightly-sealed home.
Be aware of these Danger Signs!
???? You or other members of your family are experiencing the symptoms of CO exposure.
???? You notice a sharp, penetrating odour or smell of gas when your furnace or other fuel-burning appliance
turns on.
???? The air feels stale or stuffy.
???? The pilot light of your gas furnace or other fuel-burning appliance goes out.
???? Chalky, white powder forms on the chimney/exhaust vent pipe or soot builds up around the exhaust
vent.
???? Excessive moisture forms on windows and walls.
???? The alarm of a carbon monoxide detector sounds.
Heating, Ref r i g eration and Air Condi t i o n i n g Ins t i t u t e o f Canada
What should I do if I suspect CO in my home?
At any time, if you or any one else in your home is experiencing the symptoms of CO, make sure that
everyone leaves the home immediately and gets medical help. Call 911 or your local fire department.
If a CO detector alarm sounds in your home, open all doors and windows to ventilate. If you can’t find the
problem and the alarm continues, contact your local gas utility or a qualified heating contractor to check your
fuel-burning equipment.
About Carbon Monoxide Detectors
Only carbon monoxide detectors bearing the new Canadian Standards Association CAN/CGA 6.19 standard
or the Underwriters’ Laboratories (UL) 2034 standard, are recommended by the Carbon Monoxide
Awareness Committee. At least one CO detector should be installed at knee-height, adjacent to the sleeping
area of your home. CO detectors should not be installed beside smoke detectors or near any fuel-burning
appliances. Please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for further details regarding proper use and
maintenance.
The use of CO detectors that meet these standards can warn you about sudden failures of fuel-burning
appliances and are a good second line of defence against CO exposure in your home, cottage and recreational
vehicle.
CO detectors are not a substitute for the care and maintenance of your fuel-burning appliances. Regular
maintenance by a qualified technician and safe use of this equipment are key activities to help prevent a
carbon monoxide hazard.
What can I do to prevent a CO hazard?
The Carbon Monoxide Awareness Committee recommends annual inspection and maintenance of all fuelburning
appliances, venting systems and chimneys by a qualified service technician. Regularly maintained
appliances that are properly ventilated should not produce hazardous levels of carbon monoxide.
If you are adding a new fuel-burning appliance or making changes to your home’s ventilation system, please
consult a qualified heating contractor to ensure that your home is safe from CO hazards.
Finally, to keep safe, please remember:
???? You have a responsibility to inform yourself about the dangers of carbon monoxide. Your knowledge and
actions may save you and your family.
???? Carbon monoxide detectors are a good second line of defence but they do not eliminate the need for
regular inspection, maintenance and safe use of your fuel-burning appliances.
???? Take the time to learn about CO detectors in your home to ensure you are using this equipment properly
and effectively.
Who we are…
The Carbon Monoxide Awareness Committee is comprised of representatives from the fuels industry,
government, regulatory authorities, standards and certification agencies, fire services, public utilities and
appliance manufacturers (including HRAI). The Committee is committed to an ongoing, co-ordinated
approach to protecting the public against the hazards of CO through greater awareness and understanding
Choosing a heating and air conditioning contractor
Tuesday, June 22nd, 2010Consumer Tips
on Choosing a Heating and Air Conditioning
CONTRACTOR
Finding Reputable Contractors
There are many ways to find a contractor to provide for your home comfort needs, but not all
of them are equally effective. Personal referrals from trusted friends, family and/or colleagues
are a good start, but you should also consider going directly to the industry’s professional
association for assistance.
Contractor companies that hold membership in the Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning
Institute of Canada (HRAI) have been pre-screened to ensure that they possess the relevant
trade licences, technical certifications and insurance coverage that you should expect from
any contractor with which you would entrust the care of your home comfort system. Look for
the HRAI Member Company logo when choosing a contractor. You can verify that they are a
member by searching the HRAI online Contractor Locator at www.hrai.ca.
Getting Estimates
Arrange for the contractor to come and inspect the job site. Some small jobs may be priced
out and an estimate written immediately, but larger jobs may require additional time to
price properly. A contractor should also complete a heat loss and heat gain calculation
to determine the size of equipment that your home needs.
When comparing estimates, the statements about the work to be performed and the materials
used should be of comparable quality, or the estimates should make proper allowances for
any differences. Be sure that the estimate is in writing and includes the proper permits
and licences. The warranty policy should be clearly stated for equipment, materials
and labour. If the contractor uses sub-contractors for some of the actual work,
these should be specified both in the proposal and in the contract.
The Contract
The contract is the agreement between you and the contractor that specifies what
work will be performed and gives a firm dollar value on that work. It is a legal, binding
document when signed by both parties, so be sure you understand and agree with
the contents before signing. Any changes or additions in the work to be done
should never be made without those alterations being written into the contract
and initialed by both parties.
In addition to the name, address and telephone number of the consumer and the
contractor, the contract should clearly state the following items:
• required permits that must be purchased by the contractor;
• responsibility for removal of old equipment and materials;
• warranties and guarantees on materials and labour;
• approximate start and completion dates unless specific dates and times are agreed upon; and
• price and terms of payment.
Insurance
It is important that the contractor and any sub-contractors each have public liability
and property damage insurance, and be able to produce a certificate of good standing from
the Workers’ Compensation Board. You may wish to ask who the policy is with and follow
up to verify that it is current.
Payment
Payment methods will vary to meet your preferences or needs, and may include financing,
credit, cash or an equipment rental program. In any case, the payment schedule should be
easy to understand and should clearly state what, if any, interest charges apply.
Make sure to inquire about any applicable energy-efficiency rebates.
References
Reputable contractors will be more than willing to give you the names and
addresses of customers they’ve done work for in your area. You may also
wish to contact the Better Business Bureau, which maintains records of
consumer complaints.
Keeping your Cool without the noise: Air Conditioning
Monday, June 21st, 2010Keep Cool without losing your Cool
Household Air Conditioner Noise
Do’s and Don’ts
Air Conditioners can bring welcome relief during hot, steamy weather, but they can also add
unwelcome noise to previously quiet neighbourhoods.
Noise inflicts stress, interrupts sleep, interferes with speech and generally leaves us feeling
flustered and annoyed.
Today’s trend toward building high density housing projects and the resulting close proximity of
residential lots means that an air conditioner or a heat pump is often installed close to a
neighbour’s lot line.
In order to keep the peace and keep your cool, it’s a good idea to select the suitable air
conditioning equipment for your needs and to install it correctly.
Noise – there is a limit
Many municipalities regulate noise control of air conditioning devices through the Model
Municipal Noise Control By-law using guidelines that were developed by the Ontario Ministry of
the Environment. These guidelines basically state that the sound generated by an air
conditioning device should not intrude significantly in neighbouring residential property.
How much noise is too much?
In general, the acceptable noise level for an air conditioner is the existing background sound
level (due to road traffic noise, etc.) plus 5 dBA*. If the background noise level is low, the
sound level should not exceed 45 dBA* and 50 dBA for locations in rural and urban areas
respectively. Noise level measurements are usually taken at a location where neighbours are
likely to complain about the noise – on a patio or outside a bedroom window, for example.
A separate limit of 55 dBA applies to urban locations where the air conditioning device was a
mandatory requirement for noise control in new developments in a noisy environment, such as
near a major roadway or railway tracks.
Manufacturers are also required to limit the noise level of the air conditioners they produce. A
maximum ARI (Air conditioning and Refrigeration Institute) Standard sound rating of 8.0 bels*
applies to air conditioning devices built during 1991, and 7.6 bels applies to air conditioning
devices built after January 1, 1992.
When an air conditioner is installed, it must comply with both the sound level limit in dBA and
the manufacturer’s sound emission rating in bels.
* dBA (A-weighted decibels) and bels are standard units of measure.
How to keep things quiet
You can reduce noise from air conditioning devices by selecting a quiet unit, choosing the best
location and following proper installation and maintenance procedures.
Know your air conditioner
Proper selection and installation of your air conditioner will go a long way toward preserving the
peace in your neighbourhood.
Most of the noise produced by an air conditioner comes from the following components:
Fans
Noise from the fan is generated by the fan blades passing through the air. Sound levels from
fan operation vary depending on the number of fan blades, fan speed and size, and the
clearance between the fan and the cabinet.
Compressors
Noise from the compressor comes from the compressor valves and the electrical motor in the
compressor.
Unit cabinet
Noise from the cabinet vibration should be negligible if the unit is properly installed and
maintained.
In addition to choosing a quiet unit, you can further reduce the amount of noise produced by
your air conditioner by building a barrier or other structure around it. This will separate the unit
from noise sensitive areas such as a neighbour’s patio or bedroom window by deflecting some
of the noise away from the neighbour’s property.
A barrier is most effective when:
• It is placed close to the air conditioner or heat pump without restricting airflow to or from
the unit;
• It is without any gaps or cracks that would otherwise allow sound to escape;
• It is located where house walls will not reflect sound back over the top of the barrier. If
sound is reflected back, surfaces facing the unit should be covered with sound absorbing
material.
One of the simplest and most effective shielding structures is a suitably located garden shed.
Noise from an existing air conditioner
With careful planning, you can reduce the noise impact from air conditioners and heat pumps
before they are installed. If, however, your existing air conditioner or heat pump is too noisy,
you should consider relocation, or other measures for the unit with the assistance of a qualified
contractor.
With the co-operation of the homeowner, municipality dealer and installer much can be done to
eliminate excessive noise and preserve the peace in your neighbourhood.
Household Air Conditioner
Do’s and Don’ts for Installation
of residential air conditioner and heat pump units
Do’s
1. The unit should be positioned such that
there are no windows or other openings
along the direction of sound wave
propagation. Any walls facing the unit
should be solid.
2. A partial barrier can be provided for the
unit to reduce noise that would otherwise
be radiated towards the neighbour.
3. If possible, the unit should be placed in the
front yard or side yard, away from the
neighbour’s outdoor living.
4. A water-cooled condensing unit can be
located inside the house, when local
municipal by-laws permit.
Don’ts
1. Do not place the unit where the radiated
noise may be transmitted through the
neighbour’s window.
2. Avoid locating the unit close to hard
reflective surfaces and especially near
corners and multiple reflecting walls.
3. Do not position the unit near the
neighbour’s outdoor living area.



