Archive for June, 2010

How do I choose a geothermal contractor?

Wednesday, June 30th, 2010


http://www.geo-exchange.ca/en/accreditations_search.php?seachInstallers=on&seachDesigners=on&seachQualifiedCompany=on&idCountry=1&idProvince=2&postalCode=P1P1H4&postalCodeRadius=5&companyName=Gravenhurst&contactName=&accreditationNum=&doSearch=1&page=1



Company
Gravenhurst Plumbing Heating & Electrical

Phone: 705-687-3402, E. 7

This company qualifies for TD Canada Trust loan financing program.Participant in The Weather Network national campaign.
Professional
Mr Chip Loughead

Gravenhurst Plumbing Heating & Electrical
Phone: (705) 687-3402, E. 7

This company qualifies for TD Canada Trust loan financing program.





 

How to plan for a geothermal installation in a new home or cottage

Tuesday, June 29th, 2010

Energy-Efficient Home Design


Your decision to install a GXS in your new home is a major step toward making it one of the most energyefficient homes in the country. But your home is a system, and the GXS is just one part of it. The other home design choices you make will affect how much you pay for your energy, your future energy costs and how comfortable you are in your home. These include the following:

  • the type and level of insulation in its walls, ceilings and floors;
  • the type of windows you choose and the direction they face;
  • how airtight your house is;
  • the ventilation system;
  • the types of appliances and lighting; and
  • the landscaping around your home.

There are many energy-saving options you can choose from. Natural Resources Canada offers a wealth of information on how to make your home more energy efficient.


When you make your new home more energy efficient, you also reduce the size and cost of the GXS you need. You can use a smaller, less costly heat pump, earth loop and distribution system.


Location of In-ground Equipment and Services


Make sure there is adequate clearance between the GXS and other in-ground items like swimming pools, wells and septic systems. Allow enough space to manoeuver the chain trencher, backhoe, drill rig or other equipment needed to install the GXS; the work should be done so as to cause as little disturbance as possible to existing pavements, walkways, easements and other rights of access. Pipe locations should be drawn on a site plan to reduce the risk of damage in the future.


The loop should not cross other underground services (gas lines, water mains, sewers, buried telephone and electrical lines); also, you should make sure they are protected from damage and freezing both during installation and after. All installation should meet the CSA standards.


How to plan for a retro fit geothermal installation

Monday, June 28th, 2010

Existing Site and Services


Access To Site


A GXS draws heat from the earth. Burying a ground loop for a GXS requires excavation around your home. Other services are usually buried in the ground already, including electrical cables, water lines, sewer lines, septic fields and gas lines, that must be avoided when you dig. There may be trees and shrubs that you would prefer not to disturb. On a smaller property, it may be impossible to get to the best possible site with heavy equipment like a backhoe or large, truck-mounted drill rig.


Sometimes there are alternatives. Contractors in some areas specialize in the installation of earth loops on smaller lots. In some areas, it may be possible to drill boreholes deep enough to cause only minimal disturbance to a yard, or drill the boreholes with a compact drill rig that can reach the site easily. A chain trencher may be small enough to fit into the backyard.


Make sure you know the type of equipment the contractor is planning to use, and that both you and the contractor understand exactly where the loop will be located. Many contractors will mark the location of the earth loop with small flags or spraypaint markers on the ground.


Tell the contractor about any landscaping features you want to protect. Before work begins, answer the following questions: Who will be responsible for final landscaping work after the loop is completed? Will the contractor be installing the loop, or will the work be sub-contracted? If the work is done by a sub-contractor, will the contractor be at the site when the loop is installed? Will the contractor guarantee the installation?


Adequacy of Existing Electrical System and Ductwork


One of the benefits of a GXS is its low power demand. Although it is often possible to install a system in an existing home without upgrading the electrical service, you must verify that this is the case. If you are replacing an electric heating system, your existing electric panel will probably be adequate. If you are replacing a fossil fuel furnace, however, you may well need to upgrade your service to accommodate a GXS, especially if you include an electric auxiliary heater
in the system.


Most electric or fossil fuel furnaces designed for residential use in the past were intended to raise the temperature of the air circulating through them by 20–30°C. This was done to reduce the airflow needed to deliver heat to your home and minimize the ductwork size (and cost). Heat pumps in a GXS typically are designed to raise the air temperature by only about 10–15°C. Because of this, you have to move more air through your ducts if your new GXS is to deliver the same amount of heat to your home.


Your contractor may recommend changing some of the ductwork in an existing home to accommodate the greater air flow you need. This will make the system more efficient and reduce potential air noise problems. The contractor also should recommend lining the supply air and return air plenums with acoustic insulation, and installing flexible connections in the plenums connecting the heat pump to the ductwork system.


Site Services


As noted above, you must do a thorough check into the location of underground services around your home. In addition, you should do a survey to find where your property lines are, as well as the positioning of easements and required property setbacks. Your neighbours’ domestic water wells may be affected. Similarly, your neighbours’ wells may affect the performance of your open-loop GXS.


Effect on Landscaping


The installation of the earth loop for a GXS will always cause some disturbance to the landscaping around your home. A horizontal loop will require significantly more excavation than other types of loops, although any loop installation will require some digging around your home. The repairs to the landscaping take time, because the earth takes time to settle back into the trenches. The length of time depends to some extent on the type of soil on your property. Heavy clay soils tend to take longer to settle than looser, sandier soil.


In some soil conditions, the contractor may recommend that the dirt remain mounded over the trench for several months, or even for the winter. The dirt will settle as the rain soaks the trench over time or the spring runoff breaks down the larger clumps of earth. If the extra earth is removed, there probably will be some settling, which will result in a dip in the lawn wherever the trenching was done. The results are generally better if the earth is allowed to settle naturally.


You can speed up the soil settling by compacting of the soil every 10–20 cm as the trench is backfilled, although the labour cost can be high. Soaking the soil in the trench can accelerate the settling process as well.


Once the soil has settled, there will be nothing on your lawn to show that a ground loop is buried on your property.


Effect on Adjoining Structures


Make sure your GXS is designed so as not to disturb trees, walls, overhead wires and other landscaping features. Allow space for the trenching or drilling equipment as well as the excavated soil. No part of your system or the coil you dig up should cross a property line without the written approval of your neighbour. Also, make sure you avoid crossing other underground services, like gas and water mains, telephone lines, power cables, sewer lines and drains, and protect them from damage or freezing. An earth loop must never be placed under a septic tank or cross the septic system’s drain.


In general, GXS piping should be placed well away from other services to avoid damage during repair operations.


When the earth loop installation is complete, the CSA standard states that you should make a map pinpointing its location. The simplest method of mapping the earth loop is to measure each significant point of the loop (such as the boreholes and the end of a trench) from two separate, permanent landmarks. For example, you can plot the location of a borehole from two corners of your home; this creates a triangle between the two points and the borehole, and makes it easy to find later. A map like this will be valuable when you (or possibly a future owner) want to make landscaping changes, such as installing a decorative fountain or planting a tree. The map should be placed in an envelope attached to the heat pump or some other safe place. If you are considering the purchase of a home with a GXS already installed, ask for a map or diagram of the loop system.


The CSA standard also states that a tracing wire or tape should be laid in the trench above the pipe, so the loop can be located with a metal detector. A wide foil tape can also be laid in
the trench on top of the pipe, to show that something is buried underneath.


What is the cost of geothermal?

Sunday, June 27th, 2010

Cost / Savings Questions

Details What is the cost of a geoexchange system?

Details What is the payback period?

Details What additional costs are expected with a geoexchange system?

Geothermal FAQ Frequently Asked Questions

Saturday, June 26th, 2010


GeoExchange General Questions

Details What is geoexchange technology?

Details How does it work?

Details Is Geoexchange new?

Details What are the major benefits to the homeowner?

Details Can you be more specific about the environmental advantages?

Details Is geoexchange ‘Kyoto-compliant’ ‘Kyoto-friendly’ or a ‘green’ technology?

Details Is geoexchange used primarily in homes?

Details What about a very cold climate-does geoexchange work well?

Details Does geoexchange cost more?

Improving the Air in Your Home: Indoor air quality is important

Friday, June 25th, 2010

Improving the Air in Your Home

In today’s health conscious society, all of us take great interest in the quality of food we eat and the water we drink. What

about the air we breathe? In fact:

We eat approximately 2-3 lbs. of food per day.

We drink approximately 3-4 lbs. of water per day.

And we breathe approximately 30-40 lbs. of air per day.

When we think of air quality we often

think of air pollution from cars and

factories or smog, haze and ozone.

However, since you are reading this

article you undoubtedly have interest in

the quality of air in your home or place

of business. In fact, you may have

already realized that there is a lot of

information out there, much of it based

on extensive research done here in

Canada by organizations such as

Health Canada, the Research Division

of the Canada Mortgage and Housing

Corporation and the National Research

Council. It is significant to point out that

the results of the research in Canada,

is entirely consistent with information

presented by the Environmental

Protection Agency (EPA) in the U.S.

and the World Health Organization.

From all of this research there are

some important statements that help

define the impact of air quality on your

home and on your family:

• IAQ is important because one in

five Canadians has some form of

respiratory disease,

• Indoor air has 2-5 times as many

chemical pollutants as outdoor air;

• There are over 20,000 radon

induced lung cancer deaths per year

in North America

• Everyone can be affected by IAQ,

some more than others – the young,

the elderly, the ill.

• The effect of dampness and molds on

the respiratory health of children is

equal in power to that of parental

smoking.

We sometimes hear that by making

houses more energy efficient which

involves tightly sealing the home, this

practice is at fault for air quality

problems. However, indoor air quality

is more complex than this and there

are a number of factors that should

lead us to be concerned about the

quality of air in our homes.

• We spend far more time indoors

all year round – as much as 90%

of our time – especially now that

air conditioning is so popular. That

means 27 out of that 30 lbs of air

we breathe each day is indoor air

– much of it from our homes.

• We have introduced more

pollutants into houses – more

furnishings, more cleaning

chemicals, more personal hygiene

products and more recreational

activities. There at least 4,000 –

6,000 chemicals that may be

found in our houses. Moreover,

because we are inside more, we

often bring plants and pets into our

homes that add dust, dander,

pests and other pollutants.

• Our interest in better comfort,

lower noise and greater security

reduces the use of windows for

natural ventilation.

• Our expectations for comfort and

health have increased.

These important statements and facts

can be researched further in the helpful

articles and Frequently Asked

Questions on HRAI’s website or on the

websites of the CMHC or the EPA,

however, we suspect at this point most

visitors simply want to know 2 things:

1. How do I know if the air in my

home is healthy?

2. What can I do to make the air in

my home as healthy as possible?

We feel the professional HVAC

contractors represented by HRAI are in

a unique position to help you with

these important questions. Our

knowledge and experience with the

movement and control of heat, air and

moisture in buildings is very valuable

when diagnosing and resolving indoor

air quality.

With respect to knowing whether the

air in your home may be affecting the

breathing of your family, ask yourself

the following questions:

• Does any one in your household

suffer from asthma, allergies or

respiratory problems?

• Do their symptoms appear to be

worse when they are at home or in

specific places at home?

• Has your home under gone

significant changes such as the

replacement of windows, complete

renovation of a basement or an

addition in the last few years?

• Do you notice excessive window

condensation in winter or is your

basement damp or musty in the

summer?

• Do you feel the need to use air

fresheners or scented candles on

a regular basis to keep your home

feeling fresh?

• Do you find that odours linger in

your home from morning to

evening?

• Do you notice stains, spotting or

dampness on walls or excessive

dust on floors?

• Do visitors to your home suffer

from allergic reactions?

• Do pets live in your home?

If you answered yes to more than 2 or

3 of these questions, then a trained

and experienced HVAC professional is

in a unique position to help you both

diagnose and resolve underlying

issues that may be affecting the quality

of air your family is breathing.

When it comes to improving the quality

of air in your home, it is important to

recognize that there are many things

that you can do on your own and then

there are items that will require the

assistance of a qualified professional.

Usually, air quality improvements

require a systematic and integrated

approach – it is unlikely that any one

measure solves all problems – and

HRAI members have the training and

experience to help you find the most

cost effective ways to ensure the air

you breathe is as healthy as possible.

For more on the simple things you can

do on your own to improve the air in

your home look on the HRAI website.

To find a professional HRAI contractor

in your area that has the knowledge

and experience to help you cost

effectively diagnose and find solutions

to your air quality concerns click here.

applying to be designated as a WaterFurnace GeoPro Master

Thursday, June 24th, 2010

WaterFurnace GeoPro Master Dealer Designation

Carbon Monoxide

Wednesday, June 23rd, 2010

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT CARBON MONOXIDE

To increase public awareness about the dangers of carbon monoxide poisoning, a Carbon Monoxide

Awareness Committee made up of fuels safety experts prepared the following guide to provide important

safety information you need to keep you and your family safe.

What is Carbon Monoxide?

Carbon Monoxide (also called CO) is a poisonous gas that you cannot see, smell or taste. It is often referred

to as the “silent killer”. CO is produced by the incomplete burning of fuels such as natural gas, propane,

heating oil, kerosene, coal, charcoal or wood.

Improperly installed or poorly maintained appliances that run on these fuels may create unsafe levels of CO.

In enclosed spaces such as your home, cottage or recreational vehicle, even a small amount of CO is

dangerous.

What are the symptoms of CO poisoning?

Exposure to CO can cause flu-like symptoms such as headaches, nausea, dizziness, burning eyes, confusion,

drowsiness and even loss of consciousness. In very severe cases, CO poisoning can cause brain damage and

death. The elderly, children, people with heart or respiratory conditions, and pets may be particularly sensitive

to CO and may feel the effects sooner.

What can create a CO hazard?

Conditions that can create a CO hazard include:

???? Fuel-burning appliances, venting systems and chimneys that have not been serviced and maintained

regularly by a qualified service technician or heating contractor.

???? A chimney blocked by a bird or squirrel’s nest, snow and ice or other debris.

???? Improper venting of a furnace and cracked furnace heat exchangers.

???? Exhaust fumes seeping into your home from a car running in an attached garage.

???? Using fuel-burning appliances designed for outdoor use (barbecues, lanterns, chainsaws, lawnmowers,

snowblowers) in a closed area (tent, recreational vehicle, cottage, workshop, garage).

???? Combustion gases spilling into a home if too much air is being consumed by a fireplace or exhausted by

kitchen/bathroom fans in a tightly-sealed home.

Be aware of these Danger Signs!

???? You or other members of your family are experiencing the symptoms of CO exposure.

???? You notice a sharp, penetrating odour or smell of gas when your furnace or other fuel-burning appliance

turns on.

???? The air feels stale or stuffy.

???? The pilot light of your gas furnace or other fuel-burning appliance goes out.

???? Chalky, white powder forms on the chimney/exhaust vent pipe or soot builds up around the exhaust

vent.

???? Excessive moisture forms on windows and walls.

???? The alarm of a carbon monoxide detector sounds.

Heating, Ref r i g eration and Air Condi t i o n i n g Ins t i t u t e o f Canada

What should I do if I suspect CO in my home?

At any time, if you or any one else in your home is experiencing the symptoms of CO, make sure that

everyone leaves the home immediately and gets medical help. Call 911 or your local fire department.

If a CO detector alarm sounds in your home, open all doors and windows to ventilate. If you can’t find the

problem and the alarm continues, contact your local gas utility or a qualified heating contractor to check your

fuel-burning equipment.

About Carbon Monoxide Detectors

Only carbon monoxide detectors bearing the new Canadian Standards Association CAN/CGA 6.19 standard

or the Underwriters’ Laboratories (UL) 2034 standard, are recommended by the Carbon Monoxide

Awareness Committee. At least one CO detector should be installed at knee-height, adjacent to the sleeping

area of your home. CO detectors should not be installed beside smoke detectors or near any fuel-burning

appliances. Please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for further details regarding proper use and

maintenance.

The use of CO detectors that meet these standards can warn you about sudden failures of fuel-burning

appliances and are a good second line of defence against CO exposure in your home, cottage and recreational

vehicle.

CO detectors are not a substitute for the care and maintenance of your fuel-burning appliances. Regular

maintenance by a qualified technician and safe use of this equipment are key activities to help prevent a

carbon monoxide hazard.

What can I do to prevent a CO hazard?

The Carbon Monoxide Awareness Committee recommends annual inspection and maintenance of all fuelburning

appliances, venting systems and chimneys by a qualified service technician. Regularly maintained

appliances that are properly ventilated should not produce hazardous levels of carbon monoxide.

If you are adding a new fuel-burning appliance or making changes to your home’s ventilation system, please

consult a qualified heating contractor to ensure that your home is safe from CO hazards.

Finally, to keep safe, please remember:

???? You have a responsibility to inform yourself about the dangers of carbon monoxide. Your knowledge and

actions may save you and your family.

???? Carbon monoxide detectors are a good second line of defence but they do not eliminate the need for

regular inspection, maintenance and safe use of your fuel-burning appliances.

???? Take the time to learn about CO detectors in your home to ensure you are using this equipment properly

and effectively.

Who we are…

The Carbon Monoxide Awareness Committee is comprised of representatives from the fuels industry,

government, regulatory authorities, standards and certification agencies, fire services, public utilities and

appliance manufacturers (including HRAI). The Committee is committed to an ongoing, co-ordinated

approach to protecting the public against the hazards of CO through greater awareness and understanding

Choosing a heating and air conditioning contractor

Tuesday, June 22nd, 2010

Consumer Tips

on Choosing a Heating and Air Conditioning

CONTRACTOR

Finding Reputable Contractors

There are many ways to find a contractor to provide for your home comfort needs, but not all

of them are equally effective. Personal referrals from trusted friends, family and/or colleagues

are a good start, but you should also consider going directly to the industry’s professional

association for assistance.

Contractor companies that hold membership in the Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning

Institute of Canada (HRAI) have been pre-screened to ensure that they possess the relevant

trade licences, technical certifications and insurance coverage that you should expect from

any contractor with which you would entrust the care of your home comfort system. Look for

the HRAI Member Company logo when choosing a contractor. You can verify that they are a

member by searching the HRAI online Contractor Locator at www.hrai.ca.

Getting Estimates

Arrange for the contractor to come and inspect the job site. Some small jobs may be priced

out and an estimate written immediately, but larger jobs may require additional time to

price properly. A contractor should also complete a heat loss and heat gain calculation

to determine the size of equipment that your home needs.

When comparing estimates, the statements about the work to be performed and the materials

used should be of comparable quality, or the estimates should make proper allowances for

any differences. Be sure that the estimate is in writing and includes the proper permits

and licences. The warranty policy should be clearly stated for equipment, materials

and labour. If the contractor uses sub-contractors for some of the actual work,

these should be specified both in the proposal and in the contract.

The Contract

The contract is the agreement between you and the contractor that specifies what

work will be performed and gives a firm dollar value on that work. It is a legal, binding

document when signed by both parties, so be sure you understand and agree with

the contents before signing. Any changes or additions in the work to be done

should never be made without those alterations being written into the contract

and initialed by both parties.

In addition to the name, address and telephone number of the consumer and the

contractor, the contract should clearly state the following items:

• required permits that must be purchased by the contractor;

• responsibility for removal of old equipment and materials;

• warranties and guarantees on materials and labour;

• approximate start and completion dates unless specific dates and times are agreed upon; and

• price and terms of payment.

Insurance

It is important that the contractor and any sub-contractors each have public liability

and property damage insurance, and be able to produce a certificate of good standing from

the Workers’ Compensation Board. You may wish to ask who the policy is with and follow

up to verify that it is current.

Payment

Payment methods will vary to meet your preferences or needs, and may include financing,

credit, cash or an equipment rental program. In any case, the payment schedule should be

easy to understand and should clearly state what, if any, interest charges apply.

Make sure to inquire about any applicable energy-efficiency rebates.

References

Reputable contractors will be more than willing to give you the names and

addresses of customers they’ve done work for in your area. You may also

wish to contact the Better Business Bureau, which maintains records of

consumer complaints.

Keeping your Cool without the noise: Air Conditioning

Monday, June 21st, 2010

Keep Cool without losing your Cool

Household Air Conditioner Noise

Do’s and Don’ts

Air Conditioners can bring welcome relief during hot, steamy weather, but they can also add

unwelcome noise to previously quiet neighbourhoods.

Noise inflicts stress, interrupts sleep, interferes with speech and generally leaves us feeling

flustered and annoyed.

Today’s trend toward building high density housing projects and the resulting close proximity of

residential lots means that an air conditioner or a heat pump is often installed close to a

neighbour’s lot line.

In order to keep the peace and keep your cool, it’s a good idea to select the suitable air

conditioning equipment for your needs and to install it correctly.

Noise – there is a limit

Many municipalities regulate noise control of air conditioning devices through the Model

Municipal Noise Control By-law using guidelines that were developed by the Ontario Ministry of

the Environment. These guidelines basically state that the sound generated by an air

conditioning device should not intrude significantly in neighbouring residential property.

How much noise is too much?

In general, the acceptable noise level for an air conditioner is the existing background sound

level (due to road traffic noise, etc.) plus 5 dBA*. If the background noise level is low, the

sound level should not exceed 45 dBA* and 50 dBA for locations in rural and urban areas

respectively. Noise level measurements are usually taken at a location where neighbours are

likely to complain about the noise – on a patio or outside a bedroom window, for example.

A separate limit of 55 dBA applies to urban locations where the air conditioning device was a

mandatory requirement for noise control in new developments in a noisy environment, such as

near a major roadway or railway tracks.

Manufacturers are also required to limit the noise level of the air conditioners they produce. A

maximum ARI (Air conditioning and Refrigeration Institute) Standard sound rating of 8.0 bels*

applies to air conditioning devices built during 1991, and 7.6 bels applies to air conditioning

devices built after January 1, 1992.

When an air conditioner is installed, it must comply with both the sound level limit in dBA and

the manufacturer’s sound emission rating in bels.

* dBA (A-weighted decibels) and bels are standard units of measure.

How to keep things quiet

You can reduce noise from air conditioning devices by selecting a quiet unit, choosing the best

location and following proper installation and maintenance procedures.

Know your air conditioner

Proper selection and installation of your air conditioner will go a long way toward preserving the

peace in your neighbourhood.

Most of the noise produced by an air conditioner comes from the following components:

Fans

Noise from the fan is generated by the fan blades passing through the air. Sound levels from

fan operation vary depending on the number of fan blades, fan speed and size, and the

clearance between the fan and the cabinet.

Compressors

Noise from the compressor comes from the compressor valves and the electrical motor in the

compressor.

Unit cabinet

Noise from the cabinet vibration should be negligible if the unit is properly installed and

maintained.

In addition to choosing a quiet unit, you can further reduce the amount of noise produced by

your air conditioner by building a barrier or other structure around it. This will separate the unit

from noise sensitive areas such as a neighbour’s patio or bedroom window by deflecting some

of the noise away from the neighbour’s property.

A barrier is most effective when:

• It is placed close to the air conditioner or heat pump without restricting airflow to or from

the unit;

• It is without any gaps or cracks that would otherwise allow sound to escape;

• It is located where house walls will not reflect sound back over the top of the barrier. If

sound is reflected back, surfaces facing the unit should be covered with sound absorbing

material.

One of the simplest and most effective shielding structures is a suitably located garden shed.

Noise from an existing air conditioner

With careful planning, you can reduce the noise impact from air conditioners and heat pumps

before they are installed. If, however, your existing air conditioner or heat pump is too noisy,

you should consider relocation, or other measures for the unit with the assistance of a qualified

contractor.

With the co-operation of the homeowner, municipality dealer and installer much can be done to

eliminate excessive noise and preserve the peace in your neighbourhood.

Household Air Conditioner

Do’s and Don’ts for Installation

of residential air conditioner and heat pump units

Do’s

1. The unit should be positioned such that

there are no windows or other openings

along the direction of sound wave

propagation. Any walls facing the unit

should be solid.

2. A partial barrier can be provided for the

unit to reduce noise that would otherwise

be radiated towards the neighbour.

3. If possible, the unit should be placed in the

front yard or side yard, away from the

neighbour’s outdoor living.

4. A water-cooled condensing unit can be

located inside the house, when local

municipal by-laws permit.

Don’ts

1. Do not place the unit where the radiated

noise may be transmitted through the

neighbour’s window.

2. Avoid locating the unit close to hard

reflective surfaces and especially near

corners and multiple reflecting walls.

3. Do not position the unit near the

neighbour’s outdoor living area.


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Torrance | Uffington | Utterson | Washago | Whata Territory

Contact Us

210 Brock Street Muskoka,
Gravenhurst, Ontario P1P 1H4

In Canada: 877.885.3403
Tel: 705.687.3402
Fax: 705.687.7945

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