Archive for the ‘Heating and Cooling’ Category

Improving the Air in Your Home: Indoor Air Quality

Friday, September 3rd, 2010

Improving the Air in Your Home

In today’s health conscious society, all of us take great interest in the quality of food we eat and the water we drink. What

about the air we breathe? In fact:

We eat approximately 2-3 lbs. of food per day.

We drink approximately 3-4 lbs. of water per day.

And we breathe approximately 30-40 lbs. of air per day.

When we think of air quality we often

think of air pollution from cars and

factories or smog, haze and ozone.

However, since you are reading this

article you undoubtedly have interest in

the quality of air in your home or place

of business. In fact, you may have

already realized that there is a lot of

information out there, much of it based

on extensive research done here in

Canada by organizations such as

Health Canada, the Research Division

of the Canada Mortgage and Housing

Corporation and the National Research

Council. It is significant to point out that

the results of the research in Canada,

is entirely consistent with information

presented by the Environmental

Protection Agency (EPA) in the U.S.

and the World Health Organization.

From all of this research there are

some important statements that help

define the impact of air quality on your

home and on your family:

• IAQ is important because one in

five Canadians has some form of

respiratory disease,

• Indoor air has 2-5 times as many

chemical pollutants as outdoor air;

• There are over 20,000 radon

induced lung cancer deaths per year

in North America

• Everyone can be affected by IAQ,

some more than others – the young,

the elderly, the ill.

• The effect of dampness and molds on

the respiratory health of children is

equal in power to that of parental

smoking.

We sometimes hear that by making

houses more energy efficient which

involves tightly sealing the home, this

practice is at fault for air quality

problems. However, indoor air quality

is more complex than this and there

are a number of factors that should

lead us to be concerned about the

quality of air in our homes.

• We spend far more time indoors

all year round – as much as 90%

of our time – especially now that

air conditioning is so popular. That

means 27 out of that 30 lbs of air

we breathe each day is indoor air

– much of it from our homes.

• We have introduced more

pollutants into houses – more

furnishings, more cleaning

chemicals, more personal hygiene

products and more recreational

activities. There at least 4,000 –

6,000 chemicals that may be

found in our houses. Moreover,

because we are inside more, we

often bring plants and pets into our

homes that add dust, dander,

pests and other pollutants.

• Our interest in better comfort,

lower noise and greater security

reduces the use of windows for

natural ventilation.

• Our expectations for comfort and

health have increased.

These important statements and facts

can be researched further in the helpful

articles and Frequently Asked

Questions on HRAI’s website or on the

websites of the CMHC or the EPA,

however, we suspect at this point most

visitors simply want to know 2 things:

1. How do I know if the air in my

home is healthy?

2. What can I do to make the air in

my home as healthy as possible?

We feel the professional HVAC

contractors represented by HRAI are in

a unique position to help you with

these important questions. Our

knowledge and experience with the

movement and control of heat, air and

moisture in buildings is very valuable

when diagnosing and resolving indoor

air quality.

With respect to knowing whether the

air in your home may be affecting the

breathing of your family, ask yourself

the following questions:

• Does any one in your household

suffer from asthma, allergies or

respiratory problems?

• Do their symptoms appear to be

worse when they are at home or in

specific places at home?

• Has your home under gone

significant changes such as the

replacement of windows, complete

renovation of a basement or an

addition in the last few years?

• Do you notice excessive window

condensation in winter or is your

basement damp or musty in the

summer?

• Do you feel the need to use air

fresheners or scented candles on

a regular basis to keep your home

feeling fresh?

• Do you find that odours linger in

your home from morning to

evening?

• Do you notice stains, spotting or

dampness on walls or excessive

dust on floors?

• Do visitors to your home suffer

from allergic reactions?

• Do pets live in your home?

If you answered yes to more than 2 or

3 of these questions, then a trained

and experienced HVAC professional is

in a unique position to help you both

diagnose and resolve underlying

issues that may be affecting the quality

of air your family is breathing.

When it comes to improving the quality

of air in your home, it is important to

recognize that there are many things

that you can do on your own and then

there are items that will require the

assistance of a qualified professional.

Usually, air quality improvements

require a systematic and integrated

approach – it is unlikely that any one

measure solves all problems – and

HRAI members have the training and

experience to help you find the most

cost effective ways to ensure the air

you breathe is as healthy as possible.

For more on the simple things you can

do on your own to improve the air in

your home look on the HRAI website.

To find a professional HRAI contractor

in your area that has the knowledge

and experience to help you cost

effectively diagnose and find solutions

to your air quality concerns click here.

Compare Annual Heating Costs of Heating Systems and Energy Savings

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

Compare Annual Heating Costs of Heating Systems and Energy Savings

The annual heating cost is determined by the combination of annual heating load, energy source and equipment efficiency. To determine the savings you could expect if you upgrade your current system, you can use the formulas for each energy source or use our heating calculator.

Upgrading an oil system

If you are thinking of converting your oil furnace to a more efficient oil heating system, you may be interested in determining the savings you could expect. Table 1 and the following formula can provide you with reasonably accurate figures. You need to know your annual fuel cost and the type of heating technology you are using.

Annual $ Savings = A – B
———— X C
A

A = Seasonal efficiency of proposed system
B = Seasonal efficiency of existing system
C = Present annual fuel cost

Example: How much would you save by changing from an old oil furnace to a new oil furnace with a high-static burner at 85 percent efficiency, if your present annual fuel cost is $1, 205? The seasonal efficiency of the new furnace with a high-static burner is taken to be 85 percent, and the present oil furnace efficiency is 60 percent. Hence, A = 85%, B = 60%, C = $1, 205.

Annual $ savings = 85 – 60
————— X 1205 = $354
85

In this example you would save $354 per year with this new oil furnace.

Table 1 - Typical Heating System Efficiencies and Energy Savings
Energy Source Technology Seasonal Efficiency (AFUE) % Energy Savings % of Base*
Oil Cast-iron head burner (old furnace) 60 Base
Flame-retention head replacement burner 70–78 14–23
High-static replacement burner 74–82 19–27
New standard model 78–86 23–30
Mid-efficiency furnace 83–89 28–33
Integrated space/tap water (mid-efficiency) 83–89 28–33 space
40–44 water
Natural
Gas
Conventional 60 Base
Vent damper with non-continuous pilot light 62–67 3–10
Mid-efficiency 78–84 23–28
High-efficiency condensing furnace 89–97 33–38
Integrated space/tap water (condensing) 89–96 33–38 space
44–48 water
Electricity Electric baseboards 100
Electric furnace or boiler 100
Air-source heat pump 1.7 COP**
Earth-energy system
(ground-source heat pump)
2.6 COP**
Propane Conventional 62 Base
Vent damper with non-continuous pilot light 64–69 3–10
Mid-efficiency 79–85 21–27
Condensing 87–94 29–34
Wood Central furnace 45–55
Conventional stove (properly located) 55–70
“High-tech ”stove*** (properly located) 70–80
Advanced combustion fireplace 50–70
Pellet stove 55–80
* “Base” represents the energy consumed by a standard furnace. 
** COP =Coefficient of performance, a measure of the heat delivered by a heat pump over the heating season per unit of electricity consumed. 
*** CSA B415 or EPA Phase II tested.

Upgrading a Gas System

If you are thinking of converting your gas furnace to a more efficient gas heating system, you may be interested in determining the savings you could expect. Table 2 and the following formula can provide you with reasonably accurate figures. You need to know your annual fuel cost and the type of heating technology you are using.

Annual $ Savings = A – B
———— X C
A

A = Seasonal efficiency of proposed system
B = Seasonal efficiency of existing system
C = Present annual fuel cost

Example: How much would you save by changing from a conventional gas furnace to a high-efficiency gas furnace at 96 percent efficiency if your present annual gas cost for space heating is $800?

The seasonal efficiency of the new condensing furnace is 96 percent, and the efficiency of your present gas furnace is 60 percent. Hence, A =96 percent, B =60 percent C =$800.

Annual $ Savings = 96 – 60
————— X 800 = $300
96

In this example, you would save $300 a year in energy costs and you would eliminate the need for a chimney.

Table2. Gas Heating Appliances – Features and Efficiency Ranges
Type Features Seasonal
Efficiency
(AFUE) (%)
Conventional furnace1
  • chimney
  • draft hood
  • with continuously lit pilot light
  • with electronic ignition and vent damper
60
62–67
Conventional boiler1
  • chimney
  • draft hood
  • with continuously lit pilot light
  • with electronic ignition and vent damper
55–65
60–70
Standard-efficiency furnace1
  • chimney or side wall vent
  • draft hood
  • electric ignition
  • powered exhaust
78–84
Standard-efficiency boiler1
  • similar to mid-efficiency furnace
80–88
Condensing furnace2
  • no chimney
  • no draft hood
  • electric ignition
  • multi-stage heat exchanger
  • condenses water vapour from flue gases
  • PVC or ABS flue pipe to side wall
90–97
Condensing boiler 2
  • similar to condensing furnace
89–99
Conversion burners for oil equipment1
  • chimney
  • pilot light or electric ignition
  • special barometric damper or draft hood
63–68
Direct-vent wall furnace1
  • vent
  • sealed combustion
  • pilot light or electric ignition
70–82
Room heaters1
  • vent
  • pilot light or electric ignition
  • draft hood or sealed combustion
60–82
1If this appliance is fired with propane rather than natural gas, add 2 percent to the efficiency.
2 If a condensing appliance is fired with propane rather than natural gas, subtract 2 percent from the efficiency.

Changing Your Energy Source

You can use the following procedure to compare the cost of heating with various energy sources, such as oil, electricity, natural gas, propane or wood. First, find out the cost of the energy sources you wish to compare and decide what types of heating technologies you might wish to use.

Determine the Price of Energy Sources in Your Area

Call your local fuel and electricity suppliers to find out the cost of energy sources in your area. This should be the total cost delivered to your home, and it should include any basic cost that some suppliers might charge, along with necessary rentals, such as a propane tank. Be sure to get the prices for the energy sources in the same units as shown in Table 3. Write the costs in the spaces provided. If your local natural gas price is given in gigajoules (GJ) , you can convert it to cubic metres (m3) by multiplying the price per GJ by 0. 0375. For example, $5.17/GJ x 0. 0375 = $0.19/m3.

Table 3. Energy Content and Local Price of Various Energy Sources
Energy Soure Energy Content Local Unit Price
Metric Imperial
Electricity 3.6 MJ/kWh 3 413 Btu/kWh $0._____ /kWh
Oil 38.2 MJ/litre 140 000 Btu/gal (US) $0._____ /litre
Natural Gas 37.5 MJ/m³ 1 007 Btu/ft³ $0._____m³
Propane 25.3 MJ/litre 92 700 Btu/gal (US) $0._____litre
Hardwood* 30 600 MJ/cord 28 000 000 Btu/cord _____$/cord
Softwood* 18 700 MJ/cord 17 000 000 Btu/cord _____$/cord
Wood Pellets 19 800 MJ/cord 20 000 000 Btu/cord _____$/cord
Conversion: 1000 MJ= 1 gigajoule (GJ)
* The figure provided for wood are for a “full” cord, measuring 
1.2m x 1.2m x 2.4m (4 ft. x 4 ft. x 8ft.)

Select the Type of Heating Equipment

Choose the type of equipment you want to compare from the list of equipment types inTable 2. Note the efficiency figures in the column titled Seasonal Efficiency. Using these figures, you can calculate the savings you can achieve by upgrading an older system to a newer, more energy-efficient one or by choosing higher efficiency equipment with alternative energy sources.

Determine Your Home’s Annual Heating Load

If you know your heating bill and the unit cost of your energy source, you can determine your Annual Heating Load in gigajoules from the following equation. Or you may wish to use our Heating cost calculator.

Annual Heating Load = Heating Bill      Seasonal Efficiency
——————  x  ——————————  x  Energy Content
100 000          Energy Cost/Unit

If you don’t have a heating bill, you can estimate your annual heating load in GJ fromTable 4by selecting the house type and location that is closest to your own.

If your bill also includes tap water heating from the same energy source, and even equipment rentals, you can still calculate your annual heating load, but it will require a little more care and calculation to separate out only your heating portion.

Example - Oil : You have an oil bill of $1,220, an oil cost of $0.329/litre and an old conventional oil furnace and burner with a seasonal efficiency of 60 percent.

Annual Heating Load =  1220                   60
————  x  ——————————  x 38.2 = 85 GJ
100 000       Energy Cost/Unit

Example - Natural Gas: Your annual bill for space heating with natural gas is $687, gas costs $0.22/m3, and you have an old conventional gas furnace with a seasonal efficiency of 60 percent. The energy content of natural gas is 37.5 MJ/m3.

Annual Heating Load =   687                   60
————  x  ——————————  x 37.5 = 70 GJ
100 000       Energy Cost/Unit

The annual heating cost is calculated as follows:

Energy Cost/Unit        Annual Heating Load
Heating Cost = —————————–  x  ———————————  x  100,000 = $
Energy Content         Seasonal Efficiency

Enter the cost per unit of energy and divide it by the energy content of the energy source; both numbers come from Table 3.

Select the annual heating load for your type of housing and location from Table 4; divide it by the seasonal efficiency of the proposed heating system from Table 1 or 2.

Multiply the results of these two calculations, then multiply that result by 100 000. The result should give you an approximate heating cost for your house. If you know your actual annual heating costs, as well as the type of heating system you have, you can modify the heating load originally taken from Table 4 to suit your specific house.

Sample Calculation - Oil : You have a new semi-detached home in Fort McMurray and you would like to find out what the annual heating cost would be with a standard-efficiency oil furnace at 83 percent efficiency. To use the above formula, we can define the cost of oil as $0.30/L, the house heating load as 80 and the energy content as 38.2.

$0.30           80
Annual cost of oil heating = —————  x  ———  x  100,000 = $757
38.2            83

Sample Calculation - Gas : You have an old detached home in Edmundston, and you would like to find out what the annual heating cost would be with a high-efficiency condensing natural gas furnace at 96 percent efficiency with gas costing $0.18/m3. The house heating load is 120 GJ, and the energy content is 37.5 MJ/m3.

$0.18           120
Annual cost of gas heating = —————  x  ———  x  100,000 = $600
37.5             83

Sample Calculation - Electricity : You have an new detached home in Toronto and you would like to know what it would cost you annually to heat your dwelling with an electric force-air system with a seasonal efficiency of 100 per cent. Using the above equation, use an electricity cost of $0.0826/kWh, a heating load of 80 and an energy content of 3.6.

$0.0826          80
Annual cost of heating with electricity = —————  x  ———  x  100,000 = $1835.55
3.6             100

To compare your heating cost to those of other types of heating systems or energy sources, replace the numbers in the formula with the appropriate ones for your comparison using Table 1 or 2. and Table 3. Or you may wish to use our Heating Cost Calculator.

Table 4. Typical Annual Heating Loads in Gigajoules (GJ) for Various Housing Types in Canadian Cities
City 
Old Detached New Detached New Semi-Detached Town-house
Victoria 85 60 45 30
Prince George 150 110 80 60
Calgary 120 90 65 50
Edmonton 130 95 70 55
Fort McMurray/
Prince Albert
140 105 80 60
Regina/Saskatoon/
Winnipeg
130 90 70 50
Whitehorse 155 115 85 60
Yellowknife 195 145 110 80
Thunder Bay 130 95 70 55
Sudbury 120 90 65 50
Ottawa 110 75 55 40
Toronto 95 65 45 35
Windsor 80 55 40 30
Montréal 110 80 60 45
Québec 115 85 65 50
Chicoutimi 125 90 70 55
Saint John 105 75 60 45
Edmundston 120 90 65 50
Charlottetown 110 80 60 45
Halifax 100 75 55 40
St. John’s 120 85 60 45

Note:New”means houses built in 1990 or later, and ”old”means houses built before 1990. Due to construction practices, “weatherizing ” and re-insulating (which can be different from house to house), these figures are meant to be used only as general guidelines; they should not substitute for an accurate heating requirement determination.

Assumptions: 
Old detached – approximately 186 m2 (2000 sq. ft.) 
New detached – approximately 186 m2 (2000 sq. ft.) 
New semi-detached – approximately 139 m2 (1500 sq. ft.) 
Townhouse – inside unit, approximately 93 m2 (1000 sq. ft.)

Use our Heating Cost Calculator

Remote control thermostat from any PC

Saturday, July 24th, 2010
Q: Is the internet connection to my Smart thermostat secure?

view answer

Yes. ecobee’s smart Thermostat uses the same types of security measures found on internet ecommerce sites. Your account is password protected, our portal is authenticated with digital certificates and the communications between your web browser, your thermostat and our portal all use secure 168 bit SSL encryption.
Q: What is the warranty?

view answer

Three years from the date of purchase.
Q: Can I install the thermostat myself?

view answer

We recommend that the ecobee Smart Thermostat be installed by a certified HVAC Contractor.
Q: Where can I get one?

view answer

Call Gravenhurst Plumbing, Heating &  Electric at 705.687.3402 ext 6 or info@gravenhurstplumbing.com
Q: Does ecobee support zoning?

view answer

The ecobee Smart Thermostat is compatible with Zone Controllers. One ecobee Smart Thermostat is required per zone and this will allow you to access each zone remotely through one web-portal account. We provide a handy “grouping” feature so that when you make a change on one thermostat, it can automatically propagate to all other thermostats in the group.
Q: What is the power adaptor used for?

view answer

The ecobee system is comprised of two parts, the Smart Thermostat and the Equipment Interface Module. The Equipment Interface Module is installed in your furnace/utility room and connected to your furnace, air conditioner, etc. There is an ac power adapter that plugs into a standard outlet and then into the Equipment Interface Module. You will need an ac outlet somewhere in your utility/furnace room.

More geothermal FAQ

Thursday, July 22nd, 2010


Geothermal Residential FAQs

  1. What is geothermal energy?
  2. Can a homeowner install a geothermal system?
  3. What regulations exist relating to geothermal systems?
  4. Can a geothermal system be added to a traditional furnace?
  5. Do geothermal systems make a lot of noise?
  6. What is the warranty on a geothermal system?
  7. What are the environmental benefits of a geothermal system?
  8. Can a geothermal system provide both heating and cooling?


What is Geothermal Energy?

Geothermal means earth-heat. This heat can be captured from the earth’s interior and can be harnessed to use as energy.

image
© 2000 Geothermal Education Office Canadian Geothermal Energy Association (Can GEA)

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Can a homeowner install a geothermal system?

It is strongly recommended that a qualified and certified contractor be hired to design and install the system. Any mistake in system design or installation can drastically compromise performance and/or reliability. By not hiring an accredited installer, you may also compromise your eligibility for government incentives.

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What regulations exist relating to geothermal systems?

The minimum efficiency of geothermal systems is regulated under the Energy Efficiency Act. 
Depending on the circumstances, there may also be some requirements related to the group loop. For example, if groundwater is used, there are Ministry of Environment requirements that may apply. 
Some municipalities or other regulatory agencies may have guidelines or rules pertaining to the installation of systems.

Canadian GeoExchange™ Coalition accredited professionals and members should be up-to-date on all relevant standards and regulations. However, as always, the burden of information falls on the consumer. 
Consumers are advised to discuss regulations with the local installer and local government officials. Canadian GeoExchange™ Coalition certified installations will be checked by the Canadian GeoExchange™ Coalition for compliance with all provincial codes and regulations.

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Can a geothermal system be added to a traditional furnace?

A dual system can be added to an existing furnace to provide a dual-fuel heating system, where the heat pump is the main source of heating and the combustion furnace provides supplementary heat during extreme cold.

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Do geothermal systems make a lot of noise?

A geothermal system is one of the quietest systems available. The indoor components are sound-insulated and sound dampeners eliminate vibration noise where the pump connects to the ductwork. The minimal noise produced by underground components is undetectable to the homeowner.

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What is the warranty on a geothermal system?

You should request a copy of both the manufacturer’s warranty and the contractor’s warranty, in writing. 
Most heat pumps come with a one-year general warranty and a five-year warranty on the compressor, and extended warranties are available. The polyethylene pipe carries a warranty of 25 years or more. Contractors should also offer a workmanship warranty.

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What are the environmental benefits of a geothermal system?

By transferring renewable heat from the ground into a building, there is reduced need for and use of non-renewable energy to heat the building. This leads to a reduction in the emission of pollutants overall.

Data from Natural Resources Canada and the Environmental Protection Agency (USA) indicate that geothermal systems have the least environmental impact of any space conditioning technology on the market today.

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Can a geothermal system provide both heating and cooling?

Yes, a geothermal system can provide both heating and cooling.

When using the system for heating, earth energy is pulled from the earth and then converted to warm air or water for heating. During the summer months, the system works in reverse pulling heat from the building and sending it into the earth.

Ecobee Internet based thermostat: Remote control your heating and cooling

Thursday, July 22nd, 2010
Q: What is the ecobee Smart Thermostat?

view answer

A “smart thermostat,” also known as a digital programmable thermostat, lets you customize temperature settings throughout the day and week to save heating and air conditioning costs. For example, you can program a smart thermostat to drop the temperature of the house during the workday and overnight. The ecobee Smart Thermostat takes this idea one step further, and adds a wireless internet connection, so you can remotely monitor and control it from a personalized web portal. The full-colour interface on the thermostat is bright, graphical and easy to read and use.
Q: How much money will the ecobee system save me?

view answer

According to EPA studies, using a digital programmable thermostat can save you up to 20% when compared to using a conventional thermostat. Your actual savings will vary based on the weather where you live, how you used your old thermostat and how you program your ecobee thermostat.
Q: Can managing my home’s energy use really make a difference?

view answer

Absolutely! Heating and cooling your home accounts for 70% of your home’s energy consumption. Next to your car, this is the second largest source of personal energy use. You probably turn off the lights in your home when you are not there or when you are sleeping. You would not leave your car running when you are not using it. But if you are like most people, you do not touch your heating and cooling system when you are away at work or on vacation. By setting your heating lower when you are away, you lower the average temperature at which you heat your house without sacrificing your comfort. This is a key component of running an energy efficient house. There are other ways that programming your thermostat can make a difference. On hot days during the summer, when air conditioners are running constantly, electric utilities are required to deliver peak amounts of power. When your home uses energy during peak periods, electric utilities must draw extra power from other sources, such as coal-burning power plants. Coal is one of the largest sources of fuel for generating electricity and a major carbon dioxide emitter in the world. By reducing your home’s energy use you can decrease our collective dependency on coal-fired power plants and in turn significantly help the environment.
Q: What does my ecobee Smart Thermostat control?

view answer

Your digital programmable thermostat controls the furnace, central air conditioner, and central humidifier or dehumidifier or ventilator. It also monitors all the filters in your system and will let you know when they need to be serviced.
Q: Why should I connect my thermostat to the internet?

view answer

There are many good reasons to register and connect your smart thermostat to the internet. Connect to the internet, create an ecobee.com account, and you’ll be able to:




  • Program and configure the Smart Thermostat.
  • Remotely control the Smart Thermostat from anywhere you have internet access.
  • Enable the Smart Thermostat to display and use local weather data to maximize savings.
  • Get e-mail alerts when your system needs service or detects problems.
  • Participate in the ecobee community.
Q: Do I need an internet connection for my thermostat to work?

view answer

No. Your thermostat can control your heating and cooling systems and reduce energy costs without an internet connection.

How does geothermal heating work?

Wednesday, July 14th, 2010

Introduction

Geothermal energy has been used throughout the world for thousands of years. Today, in Ontario many homes are using geothermal systems to offset the need for electricity or natural gas.

There are a number of unique advantages to using a residential geothermal system:

  • They can transfer three to four units of energy into a home for every one unit of electricity used;
  • A geothermal system can provide at least two thirds of the energy needed to heat a home. This may result in home heating savings of 30 to 70 percent; and,
  • Less carbon dioxide and atmospheric pollutants are produced by a geothermal system than a conventional heating and cooling system.

Further, residential geothermal systems do not require an additional fuel delivery system to the home, other than electricity, and do not require venting of combustion products.

How geothermal energy works

Geothermal systems use the relatively constant temperature of the ground to regulate the temperature of a home or building at very high effective efficiency. The system does not create heat through combustion of fuel or passing electricity through resistors; it moves heat from the ground to the home/building for heating — and in the opposite direction for cooling. In so far as the heat in the ground that these systems use is supplied by the sun, they are using renewable energy.

Simply put, in a geothermal system, a pipe filled with fluid is buried beneath the ground and that fluid then absorbs the heat from the earth. This fluid then passes through a heat exchanger that extracts the heat and distributes it through the house via forced air ventilation or a radiant heating system located under the floor, behind walls, or in the ceilings.

During hot weather, the fluid that continually circulates in the pipes absorbs heat from your home and transfers it back into the earth.

A few metres below the surface, the ground holds a constant temperature regardless of the weather.

Geothermal Systems

A geothermal system consists of four components:

  • A ground loop system;
  • Heat transfer fluid;
  • A heat pump; and,
  • An air distribution system

Ground Loop Systems

There are four types of ground loop systems: horizontal closed loop, vertical closed loop, lake or pond loop, and well-to-well or open loop system.  Each system is designed to suit various property sizes, landscapes, and types of heat sources.

The ground loops are buried several metres below the surface so gardens, lawns, footpaths and driveways can be placed over the system and maintained as usual.

Heat Transfer Fluid

From one season to another there are dramatic changes in air temperature. However, one or two metres below the surface (below the frost line), the temperature of the ground changes little with the seasons. As the liquid contained within the geothermal system circulates through the ground loops, it is warmed by the earth and then cooled by a pump that is installed in the basement of the home. As the pump cools the liquid, heat is “collected” and then distributed throughout the house via the home’s distribution system. To cool the home in summer, the same system works in reverse, drawing heat out of the home, and transferring it into the cooler ground. A hot water heater can be added to most geothermal systems to bring additional energy savings for the consumer. The decision to use water or antifreeze in the loop system depends on a number of factors, such as the type of loop system installed and local conditions.

The Heat Pump

A heat pump is usually an electrically-powered system that can heat or cool a space by transferring heat from one place to another. During the heating season, a heat pump extracts heat from either the air, ground or water outside the house, and transfers it indoors. In the summer the direction of the heat flow is reversed, extracting heat from indoors and transferring it outdoors, to provide air conditioning. Because they satisfy a substantial part of your heating needs by utilizing already available heat, rather than consuming electricity to generate all of the heat you need, heat pumps are significantly more efficient than electric resistance heating. Heat pumps are sized in tons — one ton equals 12,000 British Thermal Units per hour (BTU/h) — and most home models range from 1.5 tons to 5 tons. There are three main types of heat pumps: air source heat pumps, geothermal systems and bivalent heat pumps.

The air distribution system

Geothermal systems work best with in-floor hydronic heating or forced air distribution systems.

In a hydronic system, hot water is circulated through radiators or a system of in-floor pipes to provide heat.

In a forced air system, a fan in the heat pump blows over a fan coil and the heated or cooled air is circulated throughout the house or building.

Forced air systems are the most common as they tend to be the most economical and they also provide both heating and cooling functions.

Source: Natural Resources Canada (2002) Residential Earth Energy Systems: A Buyer’s Guide.

Installation recommendations

Any mistake in system design or installation can drastically compromise performance and/or reliability. It is therefore strongly recommended that when installing a residential geothermal system, you deal with designers, installers and drillers who are accredited by the Canadian GeoExchange™ Coalition. In addition, the Ministry of the Environment has issued a technical bulletin on “Constructing Earth Energy Systems in Ontario”, available at www.ene.gov.on.ca/publications/7219e.pdf which deals with MOE requirements and other considerations related to earth energy systems.

Cost of installation

There are many site specific variables that influence the cost of installing a geothermal system, including loop type and size, site conditions (soil/rock type, water quality etc.), overall size of the system and local regulations.

The cost of a complete and installed residential system, including the ground loop and indoor heat pump, can range from between $15,000 to $30,000.

Additional expenses may be incurred for modifications to interior ductwork or lawn/surface restoration costs. Your contractor will estimate the costs of these and other foreseeable additional costs during a consultation.

While geothermal systems may be more expensive to install than conventional systems, the long-term energy savings can be significant. The payback period for each system will vary depending on the cost of the system and existing energy expenses. Based on the current level of government rebates, however, the average payback period for a typical home geothermal system ranges from four to seven years.

Maintenance

When installed correctly, geothermal systems generally require very little repair and have an estimated life of 20 to 25 years.

For optimal performance, system ducts and air filters clean should be kept clean and maintained according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Annual maintenance of the pump and loop system should be done by an accredited service contractor. Digging is not required to perform regular maintenance.

For more information about residential geothermal systems, please visit:

www.gravenhurstplumbing.com


More about geothermal: Introduction

Tuesday, July 13th, 2010

Introduction

Geothermal energy has been used throughout the world for thousands of years. Today, in Ontario many homes are using geothermal systems to offset the need for electricity or natural gas.

There are a number of unique advantages to using a residential geothermal system:

  • They can transfer three to four units of energy into a home for every one unit of electricity used;
  • A geothermal system can provide at least two thirds of the energy needed to heat a home. This may result in home heating savings of 30 to 70 percent; and,
  • Less carbon dioxide and atmospheric pollutants are produced by a geothermal system than a conventional heating and cooling system.

Further, residential geothermal systems do not require an additional fuel delivery system to the home, other than electricity, and do not require venting of combustion products.

How geothermal energy works

Geothermal systems use the relatively constant temperature of the ground to regulate the temperature of a home or building at very high effective efficiency. The system does not create heat through combustion of fuel or passing electricity through resistors; it moves heat from the ground to the home/building for heating — and in the opposite direction for cooling. In so far as the heat in the ground that these systems use is supplied by the sun, they are using renewable energy.

Simply put, in a geothermal system, a pipe filled with fluid is buried beneath the ground and that fluid then absorbs the heat from the earth. This fluid then passes through a heat exchanger that extracts the heat and distributes it through the house via forced air ventilation or a radiant heating system located under the floor, behind walls, or in the ceilings.

During hot weather, the fluid that continually circulates in the pipes absorbs heat from your home and transfers it back into the earth.

A few metres below the surface, the ground holds a constant temperature regardless of the weather.

Geothermal Systems

A geothermal system consists of four components:

  • A ground loop system;
  • Heat transfer fluid;
  • A heat pump; and,
  • An air distribution system

Ground Loop Systems

There are four types of ground loop systems: horizontal closed loop, vertical closed loop, lake or pond loop, and well-to-well or open loop system.  Each system is designed to suit various property sizes, landscapes, and types of heat sources.

The ground loops are buried several metres below the surface so gardens, lawns, footpaths and driveways can be placed over the system and maintained as usual.

Heat Transfer Fluid

From one season to another there are dramatic changes in air temperature. However, one or two metres below the surface (below the frost line), the temperature of the ground changes little with the seasons. As the liquid contained within the geothermal system circulates through the ground loops, it is warmed by the earth and then cooled by a pump that is installed in the basement of the home. As the pump cools the liquid, heat is “collected” and then distributed throughout the house via the home’s distribution system. To cool the home in summer, the same system works in reverse, drawing heat out of the home, and transferring it into the cooler ground. A hot water heater can be added to most geothermal systems to bring additional energy savings for the consumer. The decision to use water or antifreeze in the loop system depends on a number of factors, such as the type of loop system installed and local conditions.

The Heat Pump

A heat pump is usually an electrically-powered system that can heat or cool a space by transferring heat from one place to another. During the heating season, a heat pump extracts heat from either the air, ground or water outside the house, and transfers it indoors. In the summer the direction of the heat flow is reversed, extracting heat from indoors and transferring it outdoors, to provide air conditioning. Because they satisfy a substantial part of your heating needs by utilizing already available heat, rather than consuming electricity to generate all of the heat you need, heat pumps are significantly more efficient than electric resistance heating. Heat pumps are sized in tons — one ton equals 12,000 British Thermal Units per hour (BTU/h) — and most home models range from 1.5 tons to 5 tons. There are three main types of heat pumps: air source heat pumps, geothermal systems and bivalent heat pumps.

The air distribution system

Geothermal systems work best with in-floor hydronic heating or forced air distribution systems.

In a hydronic system, hot water is circulated through radiators or a system of in-floor pipes to provide heat.

In a forced air system, a fan in the heat pump blows over a fan coil and the heated or cooled air is circulated throughout the house or building.

Forced air systems are the most common as they tend to be the most economical and they also provide both heating and cooling functions.

Source: Natural Resources Canada (2002) Residential Earth Energy Systems: A Buyer’s Guide.

Installation recommendations

Any mistake in system design or installation can drastically compromise performance and/or reliability. It is therefore strongly recommended that when installing a residential geothermal system, you deal with designers, installers and drillers who are accredited by the Canadian GeoExchange™ Coalition. In addition, the Ministry of the Environment has issued a technical bulletin on “Constructing Earth Energy Systems in Ontario”, available at www.ene.gov.on.ca/publications/7219e.pdf which deals with MOE requirements and other considerations related to earth energy systems.

Cost of installation

There are many site specific variables that influence the cost of installing a geothermal system, including loop type and size, site conditions (soil/rock type, water quality etc.), overall size of the system and local regulations.

The cost of a complete and installed residential system, including the ground loop and indoor heat pump, can range from between $15,000 to $30,000.

Additional expenses may be incurred for modifications to interior ductwork or lawn/surface restoration costs. Your contractor will estimate the costs of these and other foreseeable additional costs during a consultation.

While geothermal systems may be more expensive to install than conventional systems, the long-term energy savings can be significant. The payback period for each system will vary depending on the cost of the system and existing energy expenses. Based on the current level of government rebates, however, the average payback period for a typical home geothermal system ranges from four to seven years.

Maintenance

When installed correctly, geothermal systems generally require very little repair and have an estimated life of 20 to 25 years.

For optimal performance, system ducts and air filters clean should be kept clean and maintained according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Annual maintenance of the pump and loop system should be done by an accredited service contractor. Digging is not required to perform regular maintenance.

For more information about residential geothermal systems, please visit:

www.gravenhurstplumbing.com


Greenhouse Gas emissions: How should I heat my Muskoka Home or Cottage?

Thursday, June 17th, 2010

greenhouse-gas-emissions-a-comparitive-analysis-based-on-types-of-residential-heating-systems

Muskoka Air Conditioning, Great Efficiency, Great Value

Wednesday, June 16th, 2010

Complete-Comfort System Up to 24.5 SEER iQ Drive® Air Conditioner/Heat Pump & Air Handler


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Best warranty and guarantee for your Muskoka home or cottage heating and cooling system

Tuesday, June 15th, 2010

Frigidaire Quality Pledge


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