Archive for the ‘Choosing a Contractor’ Category

Proof once again re Indoor Air Quality: Rooms to breathe globeandmail.com

Tuesday, September 7th, 2010


Rooms to breathe

globeandmail.com

Fri 04 Jan 2008

Section: Realestate

Byline: KATHY FLAXMAN

In an attempt to make homes less drafty and inefficient, some newer homes are built to be air-tight.

This may lower the energy bill, but the lists of things that can cause health problems via the air we

breathe in our homes is long and scary.

The kitchen cabinetry in designer Eric Tomas’ recent renovation project is formaldehyde-free

particleboard.

If that doesn’t sound very hip and trendy, consider how very un-hip the sound of coughing and

wheezing is. As a LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design)-accredited designer, Mr.

Tomas, 33, helps clients avoid the pitfalls of indoor air pollution.

“A lot of the products we use to build and furnish our homes contain pollutants,” he says. “One solution

is to source materials that are low in known toxins such as formaldehyde. So many things like

cabinets, engineered wood joists, floors and carpeting are potentially full of volatile organic compounds

that can cause health problems. There are products such as formaldehyde-free particle board, but it’s

hard for the consumer to wade through everything to find them.”

Indoor air pollution is the new frontier in the quest for green, ecologically-responsible lifestyles and

homes. Statistics for respiratory diseases such as asthma frighten, and there is always the spectre of

cancer to scare the perfume right off our skin! Parents of young children and expectant parents are

among the most strongly concerned.

Christian Gautier, trained in architecture in France, has both personal and professional interest in the

matter. Having worked on the Biowall at Queen’s University — an experimental solution to the problem

of indoor pollution that uses a wall of plants to gobble up the toxins we humans put into our

atmosphere — he’s impressed by the logic of the approach and worried for society and his own family.

“Creating clean air by using plants is a nice solution,” he says. “Of course it is all planned very

carefully with the right natural light and the right plants, water source and wall position. The plants eat

the pollution.

“Indoor air pollution is a big problem and there is nothing in the Ontario Building Code to address this

problem,” he says. “Some houses are sealed up tight with no proper ventilation. Pollution and mould

can thrive in this atmosphere. I have three children myself, and the oldest, Thomas, 5, has some

respiratory problems. I don’t know if the problems are caused by pollution in the home, or whether he

just is fragile naturally, but the issue concerns me.”

The lists of things that can cause health problems via the air we breathe in our homes is long and

scary. Simple stuff like the candles we burn, finishes like paints that contain leads and all those wood

products glued together may be choking us. That beautiful new loveseat may be treated to make it

stain resistant. There are VOCs, moulds and a host of lung-clogging particulates. What can be done?

“The big problem with green technology is always the issue of cost,” Mr. Tomas says. “Clients think

that if the government allows something to be used, it must be okay. If we suggest something else that

is more costly, they often think we are being overly cautious.

“As well as using products that are safer, it’s important to make sure a home is properly ventilated,”

Mr. Tomas says. “In Toronto, a lot of homes built in the 20’s were done with such poor wall assemblies

that they are very leaky. Of course this causes them to be cold and drafty, but it does minimize the

problems with indoor pollutants.”

When the building industry caught on to this shortcoming, the response was to make homes air tight.

The drafts and leaks stopped and some good fuel and energy consumption savings resulted, but the

lack of proper ventilation created another pitfall. “In the 70’s when houses were being built really, really

tight, cases of ’sick building syndrome’ started to crop up, where people were having symptoms like

headaches and watering eyes,” Mr. Tomas says. “The problem was that not enough fresh air was

getting in.”

So what can consumers do, if they are worried about the air quality in their home or in a home they are

considering purchasing? Will a building inspection do the trick?

“Purchasers in today’s hot market often have to mitigate the inspection condition to make their offers

more favourable in a bidding situation,” Anne Lok of Homelife/Realty One in Toronto says. And in any

case, a standard building inspection is unlikely to deal with air quality. It may be necessary to call in

experts in air quality.

A company such as Sick Building Solutions in Toronto has specialized meters and other equipment

and will visit to check out whatever pollutants are suspected. “People call us when they are thinking of

buying or selling,” SBS president Art Robinson says. “We get calls when people are concerned about

issues like asthma. Our equipment is very sophisticated and can measure many different aspects of a

home’s air. As far as VOCs go, there is a library of 20, 000 that we can look for. We condense it all

down into a report for our customer.

“The fee depends on how in-depth our investigation will be — each house and each case is different,

says Mr. Robinson. “The cost could be about $425, plus lab fees.”

Since heating and air conditioning companies are in the business of keeping our air at a comfortable

temperature, calling on them could also make sense. In the case of Atlas Air Climatecare in Toronto,

they have a clever device aptly called the Canary. This device, the size of a Blackberry, will be placed

in three different rooms for one day at a time and will produce a report on the air quality it finds. “We

launched this product in September and we are now doing five houses a week with it,’ company

representative Roger Grochmal says. “It gives the homeowner a list of recommendations. In about a

quarter of the homes we see, the air gets a clean bill of health. Other times things like high levels of

particles will be detected.

“Too much humidity can be causing problems — even structural problems,” says Mr. Grochmal. “Very

often a good solution is to improve the ventilation.”

The latest gold standard for improved ventilation is a heat recovery ventilator, or HRV. This is basically

a box with a fan which allows air from the house to escape, and fresh air to replace it. The really nifty

thing is that the incoming air will be heated by the air it is replacing, producing fresh air without drafts.

“It’s very onerous for the consumer to educate himself or herself about these issues,” Mr. Tomas says.

“I personally believe the government should be leading in these issues. In my own home, which I am

renovating with my partner Alcia Yurichuk, we used all lead free paints.

“This is an older house and we have had it super insulated,” Mr. Tomas says. “An energy audit will tell

how the insulation is performing, and indicate if the house is too air tight, but since we still have the old

windows, that is probably not the case. I will do whatever I need to do to make sure the air quality is

not compromised. It’s tricky for me to discern the best solutions, and I am a professional: it will be

harder for you. The Ontario Building Code is limping behind.”

“I want to become trained myself to do air quality testing in retrofit situations,” Mr. Gauthier says.

“Europe is ahead of North America in these matters because our system is to have fresh air coming

into a dwelling from the top and the bottom. An audit for air quality will be a very valuable tool.”

Special to The Globe and Mail

Contact Us

Monday, September 6th, 2010

http://www.gravenhurstplumbing.com/contact-us


HRVs offer best solution for window condensation, Proof once again, from Toronto Star

Monday, September 6th, 2010

HRVs offer best solution for window condensation

November 24, 2007

Steve Maxwell


Every fall for the last decade, I’ve received emails from homeowners frantic about condensation forming on their windows as the weather gets colder.

But this year something’s different. There are more requests for help than usual. Many more. I don’t know why, but I do know that the problem of sweaty windows is widespread across Canada and it’s not getting better.

In fact, the issue of window condensation and the resulting mould growth is the single most perennial question I receive, despite years of writing about successful solutions. And besides being common, window condensation also indicates more of a problem than meets the eye.

Whenever a window develops beads of water on the inside during cold weather, it means that the surface of the glass has cooled enough to cause the moisture carried in the indoor air to condense. The air itself is the source of the mysterious moisture, and dealing with the air is where the best remedy will be found.

A little bit of non-running condensation around the edges of a window is normal during winter and harmless, but when it advances enough to require a rag to mop up the water, you need to find a solution. Just don’t be fooled by appearances. Your windows probably aren’t the cause of the problem.

New homes and recently renovated ones include features that keep warm air in and drafts out. That’s good.

What’s not so good is the other stuff that tight construction holds in: airborne contaminants and moisture. If your windows sweat a lot, it indicates inadequate ventilation. There’s too much water in the air, and probably too many off-gassed contaminants, too.

My favourite way of solving the water problem automatically leads to much better indoor air quality.

All of this is why your best solution to window condensation is a heat recovery ventilator, or HRV. It’s a ventilation appliance that draws fresh outdoor air into your home, expels moist, stale indoor air outside, while also retaining about 80 per cent of the heat energy invested in the old air.

Outdoor wintertime air becomes bone dry when it’s brought inside and heated up. This is why HRVs are so effective at reducing sweaty windows. They lower indoor humidity levels like nothing else can.

Leading HRVs also feature a replaceable HEPA-rated filter that helps lower indoor levels of pollen and some pollutants.

Although HRVs are the technology of choice for eliminating window condensation, they’re not cheap. The unit itself typically costs $1,000 to $1,500, with installation by a ventilation technician costing an additional $1,000 or more.

All this is why some folks try to solve their wet window problem using a dehumidifier. And while this seems logical, there’s a problem. Two problems, in fact. Dehumidifiers can’t lower relative humidity levels enough to prevent window condensation during winter, and even if they could, you’d still only have dry, stale air.

It’s understandable that the blame for wet windows would be cast on the windows themselves, but this is rarely correct. In fact, one of the classic queries I get comes from the homeowner who had new windows installed, only to find that condensation is the same or worse. Condensation that gets worse after installing modern, multi-pane windows is actually a good sign. It usually means that the new windows are sealing better than the old ones.

Drafts have been reduced, and indoor humidity levels have risen as more moisture is being retained.

Will an HRV work in a home with no ducts to distribute the fresh air?

I wondered the same thing 15 years ago. After failing to find anyone who would give me a definitive answer, I went ahead and installed my own HRV in a second-storey storage area, with one stale air intake pipe going through the floor to draw air from the level below, and one fresh air outlet leading into the second storey room just outside the storage area. The result has been excellent performance, despite no ducts. Having the inlet and outlet on separate floors forces house-wide circulation. Even in single-storey homes, strategically locate the HRV in the basement (perhaps with a small amount of ducting) and you can expect good results.

Before you go ahead and commit to an HRV, check on a few things first. Is the humidifier on your furnace turned off? No point in adding more moisture the air if you’ve already got too much. Shutting off the humidifier may solve your problem. Also, if your windows have only one pane of glass, they may still sweat even with an HRV.

With such low insulation properties, the glass surface will remain a potent source of condensation because it gets so cold.

You must also realize that unless you have windows with very good insulation properties, you’ll probably have to make your home uncomfortably dry in order to completely eliminate condensation. During very cold weather you’ll need to discover the balancing point between comfort and a tolerable and harmless amount of window condensation.

One thing that’s easy to get used to is breathing fresher indoor air delivered by an HRV. Experience it for yourself and you’ll be glad your wet windows told you there was more of a problem than just damp glass.

Indoor Air Quality: Homeowner Frequently Asked Questions

Sunday, September 5th, 2010

Homeowner Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my home’s air is unhealthy?

There are 3 important clues that can be used to begin an assessment of the quality

of air in your home.

1. Are there visual signs of mold, moisture or other IAQ issues? Signs such as

condensation on windows, staining on walls or ceilings, spotting, bubbling or

peeling of paint or signs of excessive dust, bugs or other pests?

2. How does your home smell after you have been away for a few hours? If it

smells stuffy, stale, musty or if odours linger, these are signs of poor air

quality. If you feel the need to use air fresheners on a regular basis to make

the air smell fresh, that is an indication of poor air quality. Often someone

new to your home is in a better position to detect unusual odours since your

noise may have become conditioned to smells.

3. Do family members or others find they feel worse when in your home? That is,

if people with asthma, allergies, sensitivities or respiratory problems feel their

symptoms are worse when they are in your home, this is an indication the air

in your home could be improved.

What causes indoor air pollution?

There are many possible sources of indoor air quality problems that can be related

to the building or building materials, the surrounding outdoor air and activities and

products used by the occupants in your home. Usually it is a combination of events,

activities or circumstances that result in poor air quality. Someone with a trained

eye and nose who is new to your home is often in the best position to help identify

air quality problems.

How can I improve the quality of air in my home?

In the same way that there may be a combination of factors that lead to poor air

quality, usually improvements in air quality are best achieved with a combination of

solutions that may include lifestyle adjustments, modest renovations and

improvements in mechanical systems. There is a systematic approach used by

indoor air quality professionals when addressing indoor air quality solutions.

First, ask if the sources of potential pollutants can simply be removed. Examples

would include removal of stored chemicals, reduction of scented chemical cleaners

or personal hygiene products, removal of moldy or musty items, removal of carpets

in favour of hard surface flooring, reduction of clutter or household items, repair or

replacement of building materials that are causing water leaks or the entry of pets.

Second, for items that are not easily removed, seal pollutants from occupants.

Examples include, properly sealing doors and other entry points between the house

and an attached garage, air sealing holes that allow water or pest intrusion, seal the

exposed edges of particle board furniture or cabinets to reduce the off-gassing of

chemicals, keep any regularly used chemicals in sealed plastic containers. Another

great strategy is to create an “oasis” for sensitive family members. That is, make their

bedroom into a very clean space by removing carpets, stored items and all

chemicals from their room. Make sure pets are restricted from entering the room

and avoid plants in their room.

Thirdly, once as many items as possible have been removed or sealed, improve the

ventilation in your home. This means ensuring there is an adequate supply of fresh

air from outside being delivered to your home on a continuous basis. Professional

HVAC contractors can help with this.

Finally, allow your HVAC contractor to help you choose the right filtration system for

your home. There are a number of cost effective choices for filtration and your HVAC

contractor will help you choose one that is right for your family and your home.

What is the best indoor air quality product?

A professional HVAC contractor can help you identify and select the product or

combination of products that address the specific indoor air quality issues in your

home and for your family. Every home and every family has different needs and air

quality products should be chosen that target those specific needs rather than

looking for one “silver bullet”.

Will improving the quality of air in my home reduce the allergies, asthma or other respiratory

problems family member experience?

Indoor air quality improvements are an important part of personal health

management because each family member breathes in hundreds of cubic feet of air

each day. Therefore recommendations by professional HVAC contractors can be

seen as positive steps towards better air quality. However, your doctor would be in

the best position to determine whether specific improvements in your home’s air

quality will alleviate your specific health concerns.

What is the right relative humidity for my home?

Moisture is typically bad for buildings and building materials but good for people.

We really want to achieve a moisture balance that avoids condensation on windows

in the winter and damp basements in the summer and yet is comfortable for

occupants. In most houses this means keeping RH levels below 55% in summer and

between 35% and 45% in winter (lower if needed to avoid excessive window

condensation).

I hear people recommending ventilation systems that bring in outside air but what about the

news reports that say outside air is polluted?

It is true that on “smoggy” days, the air outside has a lot of fine dust particles and

ozone in it. However, on most days the air outside has fewer pollutants in it than

inside air – after all, the air currently in your home came from outside and then you

and your family added moisture, dust, chemicals and other pollutants to it.

Therefore on most days, ventilation or the introduction of the right amount of fresh

air, is very helpful in improving air quality. Even on smoggy days, a good, controlled

ventilation system will provide an opportunity to filter out pollutants from the fresh

as it enters your home.

Choosing the right contractor

Saturday, September 4th, 2010

Consumer Tips

on Choosing a Heating and Air Conditioning

CONTRACTOR

Finding Reputable Contractors

There are many ways to find a contractor to provide for your home comfort needs, but not all

of them are equally effective. Personal referrals from trusted friends, family and/or colleagues

are a good start, but you should also consider going directly to the industry’s professional

association for assistance.

Contractor companies that hold membership in the Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning

Institute of Canada (HRAI) have been pre-screened to ensure that they possess the relevant

trade licences, technical certifications and insurance coverage that you should expect from

any contractor with which you would entrust the care of your home comfort system. Look for

the HRAI Member Company logo when choosing a contractor. You can verify that they are a

member by searching the HRAI online Contractor Locator at www.hrai.ca.

Getting Estimates

Arrange for the contractor to come and inspect the job site. Some small jobs may be priced

out and an estimate written immediately, but larger jobs may require additional time to

price properly. A contractor should also complete a heat loss and heat gain calculation

to determine the size of equipment that your home needs.

When comparing estimates, the statements about the work to be performed and the materials

used should be of comparable quality, or the estimates should make proper allowances for

any differences. Be sure that the estimate is in writing and includes the proper permits

and licences. The warranty policy should be clearly stated for equipment, materials

and labour. If the contractor uses sub-contractors for some of the actual work,

these should be specified both in the proposal and in the contract.

The Contract

The contract is the agreement between you and the contractor that specifies what

work will be performed and gives a firm dollar value on that work. It is a legal, binding

document when signed by both parties, so be sure you understand and agree with

the contents before signing. Any changes or additions in the work to be done

should never be made without those alterations being written into the contract

and initialed by both parties.

In addition to the name, address and telephone number of the consumer and the

contractor, the contract should clearly state the following items:

• required permits that must be purchased by the contractor;

• responsibility for removal of old equipment and materials;

• warranties and guarantees on materials and labour;

• approximate start and completion dates unless specific dates and times are agreed upon; and

• price and terms of payment.

Insurance

It is important that the contractor and any sub-contractors each have public liability

and property damage insurance, and be able to produce a certificate of good standing from

the Workers’ Compensation Board. You may wish to ask who the policy is with and follow

up to verify that it is current.

Payment

Payment methods will vary to meet your preferences or needs, and may include financing,

credit, cash or an equipment rental program. In any case, the payment schedule should be

easy to understand and should clearly state what, if any, interest charges apply.

Make sure to inquire about any applicable energy-efficiency rebates.

References

Reputable contractors will be more than willing to give you the names and

addresses of customers they’ve done work for in your area. You may also

wish to contact the Better Business Bureau, which maintains records of

consumer complaints.

Choose contractors

with proven credentials,

and a track record of reliability

and quality.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT INDOOR AIR QUALITY ( IAQ) AND VENTILATION

Wednesday, September 1st, 2010

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT INDOOR AIR

QUALITY ( IAQ) AND VENTILATION

A question and answer format designed to help you guide your decision

1. What is meant by “Indoor Air Quality”?

“Good indoor air quality can be defined as the absence of any substance in the air that is a health hazard or a source of

discomfort to the occupants of a building, or a threat to the building structure.”*

* from Indoor Air Quality NHA 6069, published by Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation, 1988.

2. Should everyone be concerned with the quality of the indoor environment?

Yes. Construction practices used today to reduce energy consumption and moisture damage to buildings have reduced

natural air leakage. Without ventilation, normal activities such as laundry, cooking and showers can cause excessive

moisture generation resulting in high humidity, occupant discomfort, bacterial or fungus growth and lingering odours.

3. What then are the total adverse effects of poor IAQ?

Both the health and welfare of the occupants will suffer. The structure of the building may also be damaged.

4. How may I recognise possible threats to household members due to poor IAQ?

Some household members may have headaches, or irritations of the nose, throat, lungs, eyes or skin.

5. What are some of the major pollutants?

• Aldehydes

• Carbon dioxide

• Carbon monoxide

• Combustion by-products

• Dirt particles

• Excessive levels of radon gas

• Excessive moisture

• Pollen

• Tobacco smoke

6. Can a prolonged exposure to poor IAQ have a lasting or long-term effect upon those

exposed?

Long-term physical weakness may result from, but not be limited to, those pollutants mentioned in the answer to

question #5.

7. In what way will poor IAQ adversely affect the structure of a house?

Both visible and hidden damage to the structure may be caused by prolonged build-up of moisture levels in the walls

and attic.

Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Institute of Canada

8. How does this happen?

Interior damage to the structure is caused by moisture migration due to air and vapour pressure differentials between

the inside and the outside of the structure.

9. What is the cause of condensation forming on the windows?

Condensation is caused by warm moist air in contact with colder glass.

10. What are some methods of improving and controlling air quality?

• Removing the source of the problem

• Ventilation

• Air cleaning (filtration)

• Air conditioning

• Dehumidification

• Humidification

• Local exhaust fans

11. What equipment is used?

• Ventilators

• Air conditioners

• Dehumidifiers

• Electronic/media air cleaners

• Humidifiers

12. What is ventilation?

It’s a device that exhausts contaminated indoor air from a building or delivers a fixed quantity of outdoor air into a

building.

13. Is there an industry position in Canada regarding IAQ and ventilation?

The Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Institute of Canada (HRAI) recognises ventilation as a primary solution to

acceptable indoor air quality.

14. What considerations are important in ventilation?

There are three: amount, balance and distribution.

15. How do I know what is a proper amount of ventilation

Minimum ventilation quantities [cubic feet/minute (cfm) or Litre’s/second (L/s) are specified in the National Building

Code. Also, the Canadian Standard Association (CSA) National Standard CSA F-326-M1989 (Residential Mechanical

Ventilation Requirements) establishes current ventilation rates consistent with current construction practices.

16. How is balanced ventilation achieved?

By having equal amount of supply (intake) and exhaust air.

17. Why is balanced ventilation important?

It maintains indoor air pressure at an acceptable range which reduces problems due to moisture (see Questions #7 - #10).

Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Institute of Canada

18. What about distribution?

Proper distribution provides ventilation to every room in the house

• Homes which have a convection system (e.g. hot water radiators or electrical baseboards) will require the

installation of a ventilation duct system.

• Residences with a forced air system can use existing ducting with minor modifications.

19. Is there an operating cost associated with ventilation?

Yes, fan motors consume electrical energy, outside air must be heated in the winter, and if the house is air conditioned,

cooled in the summer.

20. Can the operating costs be reduced?

Yes, a Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) is an all-season solution that transfers heat from the exhaust air to the intake air in

the winter. In the summer the heat transfer is reversed to save on cooling costs.

21. Is any maintenance required?

Yes, filters must be cleaned periodically. The installer should leave the manufacturer’s maintenance instructions with the

homeowner.

22. What system is right for me?

This can be determined by a qualified mechanical contractor. Many contractors across Canada have been certified as

having successfully completed the HRAI Residential Mechanical Ventilation course. When selecting a contractor, be sure

that company technicians are properly qualified, certified and insured. Consider selecting contractors who are members

of the Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Institute of Canada (HRAI) which requires its members to carry relevant

trade, fuel safety and municipal licenses as well as workers compensation. HRAI “Members in Good Standing” are

companies that have provided all the necessary documentation. A company’s membership in HRAI not only tells you that

the company is properly licensed but that they are also committed to continuous improvement through education and

training.

23. What about installation costs?

Installation costs can be determined by your contractor. These costs vary with the size of the home and the complexity of

the installation.

24. Does the installation of a ventilation system increase the market value of a home?

Yes, it does. It indicates to the buyer that the health and comfort of the occupants, as well as the home’s structural

concerns, have been addressed.

Gas Fireplaces – Introduction

Tuesday, August 31st, 2010

Gas Fireplaces – Introduction

Types
Installation

In a large space, such as a home, a gas fireplace is not an efficient primary heating source. It is better to use an efficient furnace. If you plan to use a gas fireplace as a secondary heat source, however, the EnerGuide label can help you find the most efficient model for your purpose. The EnerGuide label for gas fireplaces is found in fireplace promotional materials, such as sales brochures, or on Web sites.

Gas Fireplaces and Energy Efficiency

Gas fireplaces are popular, both for new homes and for replacement in existing dwellings. However, the efficiency of models currently on the market ranges from 30 to 70 percent when tested to Canadian standard CSA P.4.1-02, “Testing Method for Measuring Annual Fireplace Efficiency (FE).” To compare gas fireplaces properly, look at their FE ratings.

Gas fireplaces, when compared to traditional wood burning fireplaces, offer homeowners many benefits as secondary heat sources:

  • They are easier to use and less work than traditional wood-burning fireplaces.
  • They offer the convenience of an on/off switch and a steady fuel supply. With a gas fireplace, when the gas supply is shut off, the fire goes out immediately.
  • There is no need to clean your hearth, only the glass, and the home doesn’t get the same mess – ashes, wood chips, bark, smoke and other residue – that it would get from a wood fire.
  • Because direct-vent gas fireplaces are sealed combustion units, there is little chance for toxic combustion gases to spill into the home, and efficiency is improved because they use no room air.
  • When vented to the outdoors, they produce much less carbon monoxide and particulate emissions than wood fireplaces.

What Types are Available Today?

Much progress has been made in gas fireplace technology in recent years. What you choose will depend on your situation and personal preferences.

Three basic types of gas fireplaces are widely available in Canada: inserts, zero-clearance units and free-standing designs. Your biggest challenge will be sorting through the wide range of models available to select a unit that is as efficient as possible and that suits your particular needs.

Figure 1: all about gas fireplaces

  • Gas fireplace inserts are meant to be installed in an existing fireplace cavity, to convert a wood-burning fireplace to use natural gas or propane. The gas burner and simulated logs are contained in a special metal housing that fits into the existing fireplace cavity. The unit has a glass front for viewing and a decorative metal trim. Existing chimneys must be relined with an approved vent when a gas insert is installed.

Figure 2: all about gas fireplaces

  • Factory-built (zero-clearance) gas fireplaces are installed when there is no existing fireplace, typically during new home construction or as part of a renovation project. The simulated logs and burner are inside their own firebox, around which is an inner and outer shell. This type of gas fireplace can be installed inside the house envelope, even against an outside wall. The manufacturer’s instructions must be followed carefully in regard to proper clearances from combustibles and approved venting materials.

Figure 3: all about gas fireplaces

  • Free-standing fireplaces resemble wood-burning stoves. All surfaces are exposed, so these fireplaces tend to be more effective in supplying heat to a home since heat is not lost up the chimney or in wall cavities.

The glass fronts used on all of these gas fireplaces can be manufactured from tempered or ceramic glass. Ceramic glass is slightly better at transmitting infrared heat into the room. However, its principal benefit is that it can better withstand higher temperatures associated with sealed units.

Installation

Whichever design you choose, it should be installed by a heating professional. And you’ll want to pay close attention to how the fireplace is vented. It’s both a safety and an energy efficiency issue. More details on installation.

Carbon monoxide detectors

Because modern houses are more airtight and have more powerful air-exhausting systems, there is a greater chance that combustion products – sometimes containing deadly carbon monoxide gas – will linger inside your house and build up to dangerous levels. A certified carbon monoxide detector located close to fuel-fired appliances (such as furnaces, fireplaces, space heaters, wood stoves and gas or propane refrigerators) will signal a potentially dangerous situation that must be corrected immediately.

Symptoms of low-level carbon monoxide poisoning are similar to those of the flu – headaches, lethargy and nausea. If your carbon monoxide detector goes off, leave your home immediately, call your gas distribution company and seek medical attention.

If you operate a conventional wood-burning fireplace (which can often leak carbon monoxide), install a carbon monoxide detector near the fireplace.

Water Heaters

Monday, August 30th, 2010

Types of Water Heaters

A water heater uses a heating source to raise the temperature of incoming cold water from a municipal main or well. The heated water is stored in a tank and distributed on demand to showers, bathtubs, sinks and other water-using equipment in the home. Several types of water heaters are available:

Storage Tank Water Heaters

List of models: Electric Water Heaters
List of models: Gas Water Heaters
List of models: Oil Water Heaters

Storage tank water heaters are by far the most common type used in Canada. These systems heat and store water in a tank so that hot water is available to the home at any time. As hot water is drawn from the top of the tank, cold water enters the bottom of the tank and is heated. The heating source can be electricity, gas or oil.

More efficient storage tank water heaters can perform as much as 40 percent better than conventional models. An energy-efficient model will typically have one or more of the following features:

  • extra tank insulation for better heat retention and less standby loss (loss of heat through the walls of the tank)
  • a better heat exchanger to transfer more heat from the energy source to the water
  • factory-installed heat traps, which allow water to flow into the tank but prevent unwanted flow of hot water out of the tank

Energy-efficient gas-fired storage tank water heaters may include additional design features, such as:

  • electronic ignition, which saves energy by eliminating the need for a continuous pilot light
  • powered exhaust
  • improved control of flue baffle and flue damper, which reduces heat loss through the flue vent
  • condensing heat exchangers, which greatly improve the overall efficiency
  • oil-fired water heaters with state-of-the-art burners, which offer high-efficiency performance and minimal stack losses.

Tankless Water Heaters

List of models: Tankless Water Heaters

These systems (also known as demand or instantaneous water heaters) do not have a storage tank. They heat water only when it is needed, thus avoiding standby heat loss through tank walls and water pipes. The most basic units consist of either an electric element or a gas burner surrounded by flowing water.

Tankless water heaters are usually installed to serve a specific need near the point of use, such as under a kitchen sink. Depending on overall water usage, they may not have the capacity to supply an entire home with hot water. For this reason, they are often used as booster heaters to supplement another water heating system.

A relatively new tankless technology – the low-mass water heater – is capable of supplying much more hot water to the home. These systems are typically gas-fired with electronic ignition and power exhaust. This makes them more efficient than conventional tankless heaters. They can be connected to an external storage tank if necessary.

Integrated Space/Water Heating Systems

Integrated space/water heating systems combine the household heating requirement with the household hot water needs, saving money on total system installation. A single boiler is used, requiring only one combustion burner and one vent. Often these systems employ an insulated external storage tank with a high-efficiency low-mass boiler to heat the water, which then passes through a fan coil (as in a car radiator). The system then blows the heat around the house in a warm air distribution system, like a conventional furnace.

For integrated systems that do not use high efficiency boilers, the initial cost saving is soon eliminated by very low seasonal efficiency. The heater is sized to produce enough heat to warm a house on the coldest winter day. However, in the spring, summer and fall, when no heating is required, the same heater heats domestic hot water only. The effect is an oversized water heater that operates for several months of the year with a low heating demand – and low efficiency, as a result.

One type of integrated system that has been around for many years, particularly in the Maritime provinces, is a fuel-fired hot water boiler with a tankless coil water heater that uses a heat exchanger in the boiler to heat tap water but without a separate storage tank. The water flows through a coil inside the boiler whenever a hot water faucet is turned on. The drawback is that this system is dramatically less efficient in warmer months, when space heating is not required, as the boiler water must be kept hot all the time.

Solar Water Heaters

Solar water heaters use the sun’s energy to heat water. Active solar systems, on the other hand, use pumps and controls to move the heated water from the collector to the storage tank. In areas where the temperature drops below freezing, the fluid in the collectors is usually antifreeze, which is then run through a heat exchanger to heat the household water.

Solar systems can supply up to 50 percent of the energy needed to heat water for an average household (depending on climate conditions and water use). Since energy from the sun is free, solar water heaters can significantly reduce a household’s water heating costs – savings that in turn can offset the higher purchase and installation costs of a solar system.

Thermostats

Sunday, August 29th, 2010

Thermostats for Heat Pumps

Thermostats for Heating Systems

Thermostats for Heat Pumps

Electronic Thermostats

Programmable heat pump thermostats are available today from most heat pump manufacturers and their representatives. Unlike conventional thermostats, these thermostats achieve savings from temperature setback during unoccupied periods, or overnight. Although this is accomplished in different ways by different manufacturers, the heat pump brings the house back to the desired temperature level with or without minimal supplementary heating. For those accustomed to thermostat setback and programmable thermostats, this may be a worthwhile investment. Other features available with some of these electronic thermostats include the following:

  • Programmable control to allow for user selection of automatic heat pump or fan-only operation, by time of day and day of the week.
  • Improved temperature control, as compared to conventional thermostats.
  • No need for outdoor thermostats, as the electronic thermostat calls for supplementary heat only when needed.
  • No need for an outdoor thermostat control on add-on heat pumps.

Setback savings of 10 percent are possible, with one setback period of eight hours each day in most Canadian locations. Two such periods per day can result in savings of 15 to 20 percent.

Conventional Thermostats

Most residential heat pump systems are installed with a “two-stage heat/one-stage cool” indoor thermostat. Stage one calls for heat from the heat pump if the temperature falls below the preset level. Stage two calls for heat from the supplementary heating system if the indoor temperature continues to fall below the desired temperature.

The most common type of thermostat used is the “set and forget” type. The installer consults with you prior to setting the desired temperature. Once this is done, you can forget about the thermostat; it will automatically switch the system from heating to cooling mode or vice versa.

There are two types of outdoor thermostats used with these systems. The first type controls the operation of the electric resistance supplementary heating system. This is the same type of thermostat that is used with an electric furnace. It turns on various stages of heaters as the outdoor temperature drops progressively lower. This ensures that the correct amount of supplementary heat is provided in response to outdoor conditions, which maximizes efficiency and saves you money. The second type simply shuts off the air-source heat pump when the outdoor temperature falls below a specified level.

Thermostat setback may not yield the same kind of benefits with heat pump systems as with more conventional heating systems. Depending upon the amount of the setback and temperature drop, the heat pump may not be able to supply all of the heat required to bring the temperature back up to the desired level on short notice. This may mean that the supplementary heating system operates until the heat pump “catches up.” This will reduce the savings that you might have expected to achieve by installing the heat pump.

Thermostats for Heating Systems

Programmable Thermostats

The easiest way to save heating dollars is to lower the temperature setting on your house thermostat. As a general rule, you will save 2 percent on your heating bill for every 1°C you turn down the thermostat overnight.

A programmable thermostat will adjust your home’s temperature automatically. These thermostats have a mechanical or electronic timer that allows you to preset household temperatures for specific periods of the day and night.

You could program the thermostat to reduce the temperature a short while before you go to bed and to raise it again before you get up in the morning. You could also program it to reduce the temperature for any period during the day when the house is unoccupied and to restore the temperature shortly before you return. A good guide is to have the temperature set at 17°C (63°F) when you are sleeping or not at home and at 20°C (68°F) when you are awake and home.

Experiment with the unit until you find the most comfortable and economical routine for you and your family.

Programmable thermostats offer at least four daily temperature settings (such as wake, day, evening, sleep) for at least two different program periods (for example, weekdays and weekends). A hold feature allows you to temporarily override the program for a period such as a vacation. When used properly, programmable thermostats can save you 10 to 15 percent on your heating bills.

Many thermostats offer additional features that allow you to:

  • store and repeat additional daily settings that can be run and changed without affecting the regular settings
  • store more than four daily temperature settings
  • adjust heating and cooling turn-on times in response to outside temperature changes

More sophisticated electronic and self-tuning thermostats are also being developed. These sensitive devices help reduce temperature swings from an average range of between 1.5°C and 2°C to a range of between 0.5°C and 1°C. As a result, the heating system turns on and off as close to the required temperatures as possible. Energy savings from these mechanisms can vary, but they usually enhance comfort.

Zone control

You can also reduce energy use through zone control. In a forced-air heating system, this involves placing dampers in duct passages and controlling them with separate thermostats in different areas of the house.

Zone control is also available for hydronic (hot water) heating systems. With it, temperatures of individual rooms are regulated by thermostat-controlled valves on each radiator.

A plumbing and heating contractor can provide more information about zone control and can install the required equipment when the heating system is installed.

Choosing an Energy-efficient Heat Pump

Saturday, August 28th, 2010

Choosing an Energy-efficient Heat Pump

It’s easy to choose an energy-efficient heat pump with theEnerGuide Rating System for heating and cooling equipment. For the heating mode, refer to the heating seasonal performance factor (HSPF).The rating for the cooling mode is the seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER). These figures, found in manufacturers’ brochures, are designed to help you make an informed choice when buying a heat pump.

ENERGY STAR for Heating and Cooling Equipment

ENERGY STAR is the international symbol that stands for energy efficiency. It is designed to help consumers quickly identify products that save energy.

Heating and cooling account for nearly half the energy you use in your home. When properly designed and installed, ENERGY STAR designated heating and cooling equipment typically saves 15 percent or more on heating and cooling bills each year. How much you save will depend on where you live and how much you pay for your energy source, but in any case energy savings will pay for themselves over the life of the equipment.

Manufacturers or retailers place the ENERGY STAR symbol on models shown to meet or exceed the ENERGY STAR energy-efficiency criteria. Today, most leading manufacturers of home heating and cooling equipment are producing high-efficiency systems that qualify for the ENERGY STAR symbol.

You can usually locate the ENERGY STAR symbol on the back of the manufacturer’s brochures, beside the EnerGuide rating box. Use the EnerGuide rating to determine the SEER and HSPF ratings and locate the ENERGY STAR symbol to find the most efficient product available for you.

ENERGY STAR qualified air-source heat pumps are about 20% more efficient than standard models.

Ground-source heat pumps use the thermal energy of the ground or groundwater to provide a source of heating and/or cooling for a home. There are three basic types: 1) closed loop; 2) open loop; and 3) direct expansion. ENERGY STAR qualified ground-source heat pumps must meet or exceed specified premium EER and COP levels.


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